teddy bear striped dresses

Anchor dress

Yellow dress

Two more dresses for your bear. Both will fit a 15" build a bear.
The dress is knit from the hem up with sleeves knit in with the bodice.  The anchor is embroidered on after the dress is completed. I used duplicate stitch but cross stitch would work

If you have any queries about this pattern or find any mistakes please let me know either in the comments or by contacting me.  



Materials: Dress with anchor: 100g dk yarn blue, 10g white, small amount of red
Yellow dress: 100g yellow, 10g main, small amount of pink
No 3.25mm and 4mm needles
Tension   24sts x 30rows x 4" no 4mm needles, stocking stitch
Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, tog: together, sts: stitches, yf: yarn forward, S1: slip one stitch, garter stitch: every row knit,

Dress with Anchor

Back

Using 3.25 needles and blue yarn, cast on 72sts
Work 6 rows in garter stitch
Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch until work measures 4.5” ending on a purl row
Next row: (k2tog) across row (36sts)
Work 3 rows garter stitch
Change to white, work 2 rows, change to blue work 2 rows
Following stripes as set work 4 more rows.
Sleeves:
(right side facing) Cast on 6sts at the beginning of next 2 rows. 48sts *
Work 20 rows (following stripe pattern)
Cast off 12sts at beg of next 2 rows. Fasten off yarn, Leave 24sts on holder

Front

As back to *
Work 8 rows in stripes

Keep stripe pattern correct
Neck shaping:
Next row: k16, turn
Continue on 16sts for left front
Next row: purl
Next row: k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1
Repeat last 2 rows 3 times 12sts
Work 3 rows ss
Cast off. Fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing seam.

Right front
Slip st next 16sts on to holder
Following stripe pattern, rejoin yarn to remaining 16sts right side facing and knit to end
Next row purl
Next row: k1, ssk, k to end
Rep last 2 rows 3 times 12sts
3 rows ss
Cast off. Fasten off yarn leaving a tail for shoulder sewing seam.

Neckband

Join left shoulder seam
Using 3.25 needles and blue yarn, with right side facing knit across 24sts left on holder for back, pick up and knit 13sts down left front, 16sts centre front, 13sts up right front 66sts
Work 3 rows k1, p1 rib fasten off main and contrast
Cast off in red
Fasten off

To finish

Sew right shoulder seam
Using 3,25 needles and blue, pick up ad knit 40sts around edge of sleeve, work 3 rows k1, p1 rib, cast off in red. Fasten off yarn

Sew side seams
Using red, embroider anchor motif using duplicate stitch.  see photo for positioning
Fasten off all ends

Anchor chart

Yellow dress

Work as Anchor dress with the following changes

Hem: work 2 rows yellow 2 rows blue and 2 rows pink
Use yellow for skirt and yellow and blue stripes for bodice
Cast off neck and sleeves edgings using pink

Motif
With no 3.50 crochet hook and pink, make 3ch, 6dc in 3rd ch from hook, slip stitch to top of 1st dc, (3ch, 1dc) to last dc, slip stitch in dc.
sew on to front of dress as shown on photo

Curvy and Tall Barbie Fashionista knitted dresses

These fashionista dolls are wonderful, they show that women come in all shapes and sizes and we are all are lovely.  I particulary like the curvy barbie because she is so realistic and who doesn't love pink hair!

So,  I've amended the barbie knitted dress on this site to fit the Barbie Fashionista doll's shape,  tall and curvy.  The patterns are written out separately as there's quite a difference in the sizing.

Both dresses are knit in one piece with a centre back seam, with no fastenings for Tall Barbie.  Pull on styles are difficult to dress on Curvy Barbie so this version has a centre back opening for an easy fit. 
I've used two contrast colours but any colour combination would work.

Both dresses can easily be made in the round, noting that the round begins at centre back. You will need to change to rows for the back opening. 

As always please let me know if you find any mistakes or have a query about this pattern. 

To fit: 12” Barbie Fashionista dolls Tall and curvy
You will need approx 25g double knitting yarn in main and 10g in each contrast
Needles size 3.25 (US 3) small button for curvy Barbie dress
Tension: 26sts and 32 rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yf: yarn forward, rep: repeat, ss: stocking stitch, sl st, slip stitch, m1: pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, k: knit, p: purl, dec: decrease, ssk: slip next 2sts onto right hand needle, insert left hand needle through front loops and knit both sts off tog.(you can also slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped st over)

 

Tall Barbie dress

Main Body (work in one piece to armhole)
Using main colour cast on 31sts
Work 2 rows k1 p1 rib
Rows 1-24:   stocking stitch 24 rows
Row 25:        K6, k2tog, k15, k2tog, (29sts)
Row 26:        purl
Row 27:        k6, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k6 (27sts)
Row 28:        purl
Rows 29-30:  Join contrast A, work 2 rows stocking stitch
Rows 31-32: Join contrast B, work 2 rows stocking stitch
Row 33:        K11, m1,k1,m1,k3,m1,k1,m1,k11 (31sts)
Rows 34:36: work 3 rows ss

Armhole shaping
Row 37:        k6, cast off 3sts, k13, cast off 3sts, k6
Row 38:        p6, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p6
Row 39:        k4, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4    34sts
Row 40:        purl
Cast off

To make up
Sew centre back seam using mattress stitch, fasten off ends

Curvy Barbie dress

Main Body (work in one piece to armhole)
Using main colour cast on 38sts,
Work 2 rows k1 p1 rib, inc 1st at end of last row               (39sts)
Rows 1-22:   stocking stitch 22 rows
Row 23:        K2, ssk, k10, ssk, k7, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k2 (35sts)
Row 24:        purl
Row 25:        K2, ssk, k9, ssk, k5, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k2     (31sts)
Row 26:        purl
Rows 27- 28: 2 rows ss
Rows 29-30:  Join contrast A, work 2 rows stocking stitch
Rows 31:       Join contrast B, cast on 2sts, k2 cast on sts, k14, m1, k3, m1, k14   (35sts)
Row 32:         k2, purl to last 2sts, k2
Rows 33-36:  work 4 rows ss keeping 2 knit sts at each end of purl row

Armhole shaping
Row 37: k9, cast off 3sts, k13, cast off 3sts, k7
Row 38: k2, p5, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p7, k2
Row 39: k7, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k3, yf, k2tog
Row 40: k2, purl to last 2sts, k2
Cast off

To make up
Sew centre back seam using mattress stitch. Sew on small button at back to match buttonhole. Fasten off ends

Baby Annabell Sleepsuit

I made one for ted so Annabell had to have one too.
This is an all in one sleepsuit in double knitting yarn, with raglan shaping.  The suit can be made with or without feet.   Short rows are used to shape the heel, and as Annabell is a ‘sitting down’ doll a lot of shaping is required for a good fit at the back. However, if your doll is not a ‘sitting down’ type which doesn’t need so much shaping, I have added instructions at the end of the body shaping, but, as all dolls are different, keep trying your knitting against your doll as you go.  
I made the multi colour suit in King Cole Cherish and the blue suit in a double knit yarn I had in my stash.  The knitted heart can be found on this site.

If you find any mistakes in the pattern or have any queries please let me know.  

A few people have asked me about wrap and turn for the shaping.
Here's a good tutorial to explain it far better that I can!
Wrap stitches

Measurements:   14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll

Actual measurements: 

Chest 14”, Sleeve seam 3”

Materials: 100g double knitting yarn (I used King Cole Cherish Caramel), 

Needles size 3.25mm (US3)and 4mm (US 6)  4 small buttons

Tension: 22sts - 28 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles

Abbreviations:  Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), gs: garter stitch – every row knit, k: knit, p: purl, inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, re: repeat. Yf: yarn forward

wrt k: wrap and turn knitwise - yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn, (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) 

wrt p: wrap and turn purlwise - yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn, (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) 

Worked from the ankle up

Left leg

Using larger needles cast on 14sts

Row 1:  k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1

Row 2:  purl

Row 3:  k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1    (22sts)

Beg with purl row work 9 rows ss*

Shape heel      right side facing

Row 1:   K8, wrt k

Row 2:   p5, wrt p

Row 3:   k4,wrt k

Row 4:   p3, wrt p

Row 5:   k4, wrt k

Row 6:   p5, wrt p

Row 7:   k6, wrt k

Row 8:   purl to end

Work 2 rows ss

Increase row:  (k3, m1) 6 times, k4    28sts 

Next row:   purl

Continue in ss inc 1 stitch  at each end of 5^th, then every 4^th row to 46sts ending on a purl row

Next row:   cast off 4ssts knit to end

Next row:   cast off 2sts purl to end.  Fasten off yarn and leave 40sts on holder

Right Leg

As left leg to *

Shape heel      right side facing

Row 1:   Knit to last 3sts, wrt k

Row 2:   p5, wrt p

Row 3:   k4, wrt k

Row 4:   p3, wrt p

Row 5:   k4, wrt k

Row 6:   p5, wrt p

Row 7:   k6, wrt k

Row 8:   purl to end

Work 2 rows ss

Increase row:  (k3, m1) 6 times, k4    28sts 

Next row:   purl

Continue in ss inc 1 stitch at  each end of 5^th, then every 4^th row to 46sts ending on a purl row

Next row:   cast off 2sts knit to end

Next row:   cast off 4sts purl to end.   (40sts)   Do not fasten off yarn

Join Legs

Knit across 40sts of right leg then continue across 40st of left leg    (80sts)

Purl 1 row

Shaping         

Row 1:    k58, wrt k

Row 2:    p36, wrt p    

Row 3     knit to end

Row 4:    purl across all sts

Row 5:    k57, wrt k

Row 6:    p34, wrt p      

Row 7     knit to end

Row 8:    purl across all sts

Row 9:    k56, wrt k

Row 10:  p32, wrt p      

Row 11   knit to end

Row 12:  purl across all sts

Row 13:  k55, wrt k

Row 14:  p30, wrt p     

Row 15   knit to end

Row 16:  purl across all sts

Dec row: k16, k2tog, k44, k2tog, k16

Next row:  purl

(for other dolls miss wrap rows: 9,10, 13 and 14)

Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rowsj

Work 10 rows ss

Divide for Armholes

K15, cast off 4sts, k36 (this includes st on right hand needle) cast off 4sts, k15, turn

Continue on 15sts for left front

Purl to last st, k1

K1,ssk, k to end

Repeat last 2 rows to 11sts, ending on neck edge

purl to last sts, k1

K1, ssk, k to last 2sts, k2tog

purl to last st, k1

Rep last 2 rows to 3sts

P2tog, k1

K2tog

Fasten off yarn

Re-join yarn to 36st for back, wrong side facing

K1, purl to last st, k1

K1, ssk, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1

Rep last 2 rows to 20sts ending on wrong side row

Fasten off yarn, place sts on a holder

Re-join yarn to right front, wrong side facing   

K1, purl to end

Knit to last 3sts, k2tog, k1

Rep last 2 rows to 11sts, ending on neck edge

k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1

K1, purl to end

k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1

K1, purl to end

Rep last 2 rows to 3sts

k1, p2tog

K2tog

Fasten off yarn

Sleeves

Using smaller needles cast on 25sts

Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib

Change to larger needles

Working in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4^th row.   29sts
Work 10 rows ss

Shape armholes

Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows

K1, ssk, patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1

K1, purl to last st, k1

Rep the last 2 rows to 9sts, fast off yarn. Place sts on holder

Neckband

Sew raglan seams

With right side facing using smaller needles, pick up and knit 8sts along right side neck edge, knit 9sts along top of sleeve, knit 9sts, k2tog, k9 along top of back, knit 9sts along top of sleeve, pick up and knit 8st down left neck edge.   53sts

Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib.  Cast off

Left front band

With right side facing, using smaller needles, pick up and knit 25sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts.  Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib.  Cast off

Right front band

With right side facing, using smaller needles, pick up and knit 25sts along right front edge starting at first set of cast off sts to neck edge.  Work 2 rows k1, p1 rib.

Buttonhole row:  rib2, (yf, k2tog, rib 4) 3 times, yf, k2tog, k3

Rib 2 rows.    Cast off

Sew side seams of legs and sleeves

Overlap front bands and sew into place at centre front

Sew on 4 buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Sew in all ends

Sleepsuit without feet

Left leg

Using smaller needles cast on 28sts

Work 8 rows k1, p1 rib

Change to larger needles

Continue in ss,  inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4^th row to 42sts, then every alt row to 46sts ending on a purl row

Next row:   cast off 4sts knit to end

Next row:   cast off 2sts purl to end.  Fasten off yarn and leave 40sts on holder

Right leg

Using smaller needles cast on 28sts

Work 8 rows k1, p1 rib

Change to larger needles

Continue in ss, inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4^th row to 42sts, then every alt row to 46sts ending on a purl row

Next row:   cast off 2sts knit to end

Next row:   cast off 4sts purl to end.   (40sts)   do not fasten off yarn

Continue as sleepsuit above from ** 

PDF pattern to download

Barbie Heart Sweater

As its nearly Valentines day, I've posted this heart sweater, which takes only 25g of dk yarn and a small amount of contrast. 

The front, back and sleeves are made to the armhole then the raglan shaping knit in one piece.  Its always a challenge to try and make these small items easy and less fiddly to knit and with this way there is only a smallish seam for one raglan and then the arm and sides can be sewn up in one seam.  When making the motif, use separate strands of pink yarn so you don't carry yarn across the motif.  When changing colour twist the yarn to avoid a gap.  If your new to block colour knitting (intarsia) try this tutorial  
Intarsia

I've designed this pattern to fit the basic Barbie but, as its a loose fit should also fit the new curvy fashionista doll.

As always, please let me know if you find any mistakes or have any queries.  

To fit : 12 in Barbie (latest model)

Materials: 25g pink and small amount red, double knitting yarn

Needles size 3mm, and 3.25  (US3), Small button

Tension: 28sts and 32 rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) on 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, ss: stocking stitch (one row plain, one row purl), inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, psso: pass slipped stitch over  (or use ssk)

Front

Using smaller needles and pink, cast on 19sts

Work k1, p1 rib for 4 rows, inc 1 st at each end of last row (21sts)

Change to larger needles

Work chart A

Using pink, work 4 rows ss

Work chart B (11 rows)

Next row:  purl

Armhole shaping

Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows    17sts

Leave sts on holder

Back

Work as front, excluding motif

Sleeves (make 2)

With 3mm needles and pink, cast on 16sts

Work k1, p1 rib for 4 rows

Change to 3.25 needles

Work chart A

Work 16 rows ss, inc 1 st at each end of 5^th row (18sts)

Armhole shaping

Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows    14sts

Leave sts on holder. Don’t fasten off yarn after second sleeve.

Raglan shaping

With right side facing slip sts onto left hand needle in the following order: 17sts back, 14sts first sleeve, 17sts front, 14sts second sleeve,  yarn should be at the beginning of row.   62sts

Row 1:    k1, sl,k1,psso, k9, k2tog, sl,k1,psso, k13, k2tog, sl,k1,psso, k10,  

              k2tog, sl,k1,psso, k12, k2tog, k1

Row 2:    purl

Row 3:    k1, sl,k1,psso, k7, k2tog, sl,k1,psso, k11, k2tog, sl,k1,psso, k8,  

              k2tog, sl,k1,psso, k10, k2tog, k1       

Row 4:    purl

Work 4 more rows decreasing as set to 30sts,  Don’t fasten off yarn and continue with neckband

Neckband

Change to 3.25 needles

Next row:  (k1,p1) 3 times, k2tog, (p1,k1) 2 times, p1, K2tog, (p1, k1) 3times, k2tog, (p1,k1) 2 times, p1, k2tog  26sts

Work 1 row k1, p1 rib.

Next row: (buttonhole row) k2tog, yf, rib to end

Cast off in rib.

To finish

Sew raglan seam with buttonhole to 1” of neck edge.

Sew side and sleeve seams, fasten off all ends

Sew on small button to correspond with buttonholes
neaten all ends

Chart A

Chart B

Barbie ribbed sweater

This little sweater is very similar to my Teddy ribbed jacket, same simple rib and the current trend of block colours.   Made in 4ply it takes less than 20g of yarn great for using up all those tiny amounts.  The pink/blue and white sweater was made in oddments of Rico 4ply but unfortunately its now out of production (shows how long i had it stashed away).  For the mustard/green and grey sweater I used Stylecraft life 4ply which has a great range of trendy colours.  

The back and front is made in one piece (see photo) with the sleeves picked up at the shoulders and a button fastening at the back for ease of fit The back is slightly longer than the front but can be simply adjusted to any length you want.  I have done short sleeves but can be made longer before starting the decreasing.  Its a bit fiddly with all those ends so I leave a longish strand when changing colour for sewing seams and, if I'm honest, usually end up knotting other ends where possible. 

Pattern

To fit: 12 in Barbie (as the sweater is a loose style it would also fit the Fashionista dolls) 

Materials: approx 10g each of 4ply yarn in 3  colours

Needles size  3.25mm (US3)  (if you want a tighter fit use 3mm needles, 1 small button

Tension: 28sts and 36 rows over 4 in (ribbed pattern) using 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, st:stitch, sl: slip patt: pattern, beg: beginning,  yf: yarn forward, dec: decrease, tog: together, psso: pass slipped st over

front and Back 

knit in one piece from front hem to back hem

Cast on 25sts in colour A

Row 1   knit

Row 2  (k1, p1) to last st, k1

These two rows form the pattern, repeat 5 times (12rows patt)

Change to colour B and patt 12 rows (place a marker at each end of 10th row)

Change to colour C, patt 6 rows,

Divide for neck

Patt 9sts, cast of next 7sts, patt to end turn

Working on 9sts for right front

row 1       (wrong side)  Patt to end                                

row 2        sl1, k1, psso, patt to end                                      

rows 3:4:  Repeat last 2 rows  (7sts)                                              

rows 5:7:  Patt 3 rows                                                                         

row 8:      cast on 6sts, patt to end (keeping patt correct)  13sts        

row 9:      patt  to end

row 10:    Buttonhole row:  k2tog, yf, patt to end                                           

row 11:18:    pattern 7 rows

Fast off yarn keep 13sts on needle

Rejoin colour C to remaining 9 sts, left front wrong side facing 

row 1:       patt to end

row 2:       patt to last 2sts, k2tog

rows 3:4:  Repeat last 2 rows  (7sts) 

rows 5:8:  Patt 4rows                                                                         

row 9:       cast on 5sts, patt to end (keeping patt correct)  12sts        

row 10:18:   patt  9 rows                                                                                 

Fasten off colour C, join colour B

Pattern across 12sts, then continue across right front    25sts

Work 11 rows patt in B, change to A and work 16 rows (adjust length here if you want)

Fasten off yarn

Sleeves

Using colour B, and 3.25 needles, pick up and knit 19sts along edge between markers

Beg with the second row of patt, work 13 rows pattern at the same time dec 1 st at each end of 6th row.  17sts

Cast off

Sew side and sleeve seams, sew on small button to match buttonhole. fasten off ends