Teddy Sports Kit

England Rugby Kit

Football Kit

Its the football and Rugby season so here’s a sports kit for bears. The pattern is for a shirt, shorts, boots/socks all made in double knitting yarn.

The sleeves are knit with the front and back of the shirt.

I've given materials needed but of course, you can knit these outfits in the colours of your team.  

The Football shirt has a stripe down the arms and a few gold stitches for the logo.

The shorts have a lot of shaping at the back to fit a ‘sit down’ type of build a bear.  If your bear is not this type omit rows 23 and 24 on the left back shaping and 22 and 23 on right leg

The logos for the Rugby shirt can be either knit as you go, (use two separate strands for the O logo) or embroidered after completing the shirt using duplicate stitch.   For the football shirt I used duplicate stitch in gold to create a ‘mock’ logo (the original logo was far too complicated)  if your new to duplicate stitch have a look at this tutorial   duplicate stitch

The boots and socks are worked in one piece.   

The outfit will fit a 15/16” bear. My model is 15” Lil Cub Build a bear

If you find any mistakes in this pattern please let me know either by the comments or contact me. Thanks

Measurements:   15/16” Build a bear (check your knitting as you go to adjust length for a good fit for your bear)

Actual measurements:   shirt: Chest 16”, Length centre back 7”, Sleeve seam 3”

Materials:

Rugby Shirt and shorts   75g double knitting yarn in white, 25g green, 10g black, oddments of red, green and dark blue yarn for logos   OR  use the colours of your favourite team

Football shirt and shorts   75g double knitting yarn in your team’s colours in main and contrast, small oddment of yarn for logo

Boots    25g double knitting yarn in green, small oddments of black and white for socks.

Needles size 3.25, 3.75 and 4mm

Tension: 24sts - 30 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using no 8 needles (or the size required to give correct tension.             

Abbreviations:  k: knit, p: purl, Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, yr, yarn forward, yon: yarn on needle, m1: slip loop between sts onto left hand needle and knit into back, k1s1psso: knit 1, slip 1, pass slipped stitch over.

wrt k wrap and turn knitwise - yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle

wrt p wrap and turn purlwise - yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle

England Rugby Shirt

Back and sleeves

Using 3.25 needles and white, (or the colours of your team) cast on 45sts

Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib

Change to no 4mm needles

Work 22 rows ss

Increase for sleeves

Next row:  Cast on 4sts at beg of next 2 rows * (53sts)

Work 22 rows ss

Cast off 15sts at beg of next 2 rows

Fasten off yarn, leave 23sts on holder

Front and sleeves

(Follow chart for positioning of logos) see notes above

As back to *

Work 8 rows ss

Shape neck

Next row:  k 19 turn

Continue for left front

Next row:  purl

** Dec 1st at neck edge on next and following 4 alternate rows   (15sts)

Work 5 rows ss  

Cast off.     Fasten off yarn

Right font neck shaping

With right side facing, slip centre 15sts onto holder. 

Re-join yarn and k 19

Purl

Work as left front from **

Neckband

Join left shoulder seam

Using 3.25 needles and with right side facing knit 23sts across back, pick up and knit 15sts down left front, knit 15sts at centre front, pick up and knit 15sts up right front.     (68sts)

Work 3 rows k1, p1 rib.

Cast off loosely in rib (I use a size larger needle)

To Finish

Join right shoulder

Sleeve edging

With right side facing using no 3.25 needles and black, pick up and knit 40sts evenly along sleeve edge.   Work 1 row k1, p1 rib.  Cast off loosely ( I use a size larger needle)

Sew left shoulder seam.  Sew side seams. Sew in all ends

Shorts

Worked from the hem

Left leg

Using No 3.75 needles and white cast on 56sts

Work 4 rows k1, p1 rib

Change to no 4mm needles

Work 2 rows ss*

Shaping

Row 1:            cast off 4sts knit to end

Row 2:            cast off 2sts purl to end   50sts

Rows 3-5:      dec 1 st at each end of next and following alt row   (46sts)

Row 6:            purl

Rows 7-13:   dec 1 st at beg of next and every alternate row to 42sts

Row 14:         purl

Row 15:         K2tog, k18, wrt k

Row 16:         purl to end

Row 17:         k2tog, knit across all sts

Row 18:         Purl

Rows 19-20: Rep rows 15 and 16  (38sts)

Row 21:         Knit

Row 22:         purl

Row 23:         k19, wrt k

Row 24:         purl to end

Work 2 rows ss across all sts

Change to no 10 needles and work 4 rows k1, p1 rib.

Cast off loosely in rib

Right leg

Work as left leg to *

Shaping

Row 1:            cast off 2sts knit to end

Row 3:            cast off 4sts purl to end

Rows 3-5:      dec 1 st at each end of next and alt row   (46sts)

Row 6:            purl

Rows 7-13:   dec 1 st at end of next and every alternate row to 42sts

Row 14:         (wrong side) p18, wrt p

Row 15:         k to last 2 sts, k2tog

Row 16:         purl across all sts

Row 17:         k to last 2 sts, k2tog

Rows 18-19 rep rows 14 and 15   (38sts)

Row 20:         Purl across all sts

Row 21:         Knit

Row: 22         purl 18, wrt p

Row: 23         knit

Work 3 rows ss across all sts

Change to 3.25 needles and work 4 rows k1, p1 rib.

Cast off loosely in rib

To finish

Sew leg seams.  Placing right sides of legs together (one leg inside the other), sew back and front seams leaving a gap for the tail at the back.

Sew in all ends

Boots and socks

Using 3.25 needles and green cast on 28sts

Row 1:  knit

Row 2:  k1, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1 k1  (32sts)

Row 3 and every alt row:  knit

Row 4:  k2, m1, k12, m1, k4, m1, k12, m1 k2 (36sts)

Row 6:  k3, m1, k12, m1, k6, m1, k12, m1 k3   (40sts)

Row 8:  k4, m1, k12, m1, k8, m1, k12, m1 k4   (44sts)

Row 10:  k5, m1, k12, m1, k10, m1, k12, m1 k5  (48sts)

Row 12:  k6, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1 k6  (52sts)

Change to no 3.75 needles. using black and starting with a knit row, work 2 rows ss

Change to green

Work 6 rows ss

Shape top

Row 1:            k31, s1k1 psso, turn  

Row 2:            s1, p10, p2tog, turn

Row 3:            s1, k10, s1k1 psso, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3  five times 

Row:  12:       s1, p10, p2tog, turn    

Row 9             s1, k to end of row across all sts  (38sts)

Row 10           knit

Change to black

Work 10 rows ss

Change to white and 3.25 needles

Work 2 rows k1, p1 rib

Cast off 

Join foot and back seam

To finish

Laces:   Using single black yarn, thread yarn through boots as shown on photo.  Tie a secure knot

Studs:   Using single black yarn, work French knots on sole of boots, three on each side at front and two on the back of the boots.

Football Shirt

As rugby top using your team’s colours BUT with the following change:

On the front neck shaping work until finished decreasing, then 3 rows stocking stitch, change to contrast and stocking stitch 2 rows.  Cast off

For the logo I added a few duplicate sts in gold.  

Rugby shirt chart

Barbie knitted dresses

This is the first knitted dress pattern I made for Barbie, although it has been updated a few times.  

The first style is in two colours and knit in one piece with a centre back seam

I couldn't resist adding a crochet collar as they were very popular at the time.  The  collar is made using 4ply cotton yarn and because a bit closer fit around the neckline I included a back opening for an easy fit.

Double knitting yarns can vary in thickness which can make a big difference to sizing in a small garment such as these knitted dresses. Budget yarns tend to be thicker than better quality yarns and although would not give such a close fit, will work well.

I used King Cole Comfort double knitting. If you want a looser fit use a no 9 needle throughout (after checking your tension) The key is to keep fitting the dress against the doll as you knit, and as they are so quick to knit, can easily be redone. 

When finishing the dress I sew a few securing stitches at each side of the armholes as sharp Barbie fingers can easily snag knitted garments.

Both dresses can easily be made in the round, noting that the round begins at centre back. You will need to change to rows for the back opening if making the dress with collar. 

To fit: 12” Barbie (latest model) and most 12" fashion dolls

Materials:

Two colour dress

Approx 50g double knitting yarn in main and 25g contrast

Needles size 3.25 (US 3)

Dress with crochet collar

50g double knitting yarn in main, Small amount of 4ply cotton yarn

needles size 3.25 (US 3), no 2 crochet hook, small button

Tension: 28sts and 32 rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yf: yarn forward, rep: repeat, ss: stocking stitch, sl st, slip stitch, m1: pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, k: knit, p: purl, dec: decrease, ch: chain

Dress Two Colour Dress

(for plain dress use main colour only)

Using main colour cast on 28sts,

Work 2 rows k1 p1 rib

Work 10 rows ss (lengthen here if required)

Next row: K7, m1,k14,m1 k to end (30sts)

Work 9 rows ss

Next row: k2, (k2tog,k4) 4 times, k2tog, k2 (25 sts)

Work 3 rows stocking stitch

Join contrast and work 2 rows ss*

Next row: K10, m1,k1,m1,k3,m1,k1,m1,k 10 (29sts)

Work 3 rows ss

Armhole shaping

Next row: k6, cast off 2, k13, cast off 2, k to end

Next row: p6, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p6

Next row: k4, k2tog, k7, k2tog,k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4 (34sts)

Next row: purl.

Cast off

To Finish Sew centre back seam using

mattress stitch. finish all ends

Dress with crochet collar

Work as two colour dress to * (if knitting plain dress use main colour yarn only)

Next row: cast on 2sts, K12, m1, k1, m1, k3,

m1,k1,m1,k10 (31sts)

Work 3 rows ss

Armhole shaping

Next row: k8, cast off 2, k13, cast off 2, k to end

Next row: k2, p4, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p6, k2

Next row: k6, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4 (36sts)

Next row: (buttonhole row) k2, purl to last 2sts, yf, k2tog

Cast off

Collar

Using no 2 crochet hook and 4 ply cotton (or other 4ply yarn) make 31ch

Next row: work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook. Dc in each ch to end (30dc) turn

Next row: 1ch, *(1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next dc, miss 2dc,** rep from * to ** to end

(10 clusters) break off yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.

Slip stitch collar around neck edge, right side facing. (beg after gs right back edging and end at gs left edging)

To finish

Sew centre back seam to back opening, using mattress stitch. Sl st bottom of gs edge in place. sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole.