Showing posts with label easy knitting pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label easy knitting pattern. Show all posts

Monday, 17 October 2022

18in doll ribbed sweater


 









Designafriend doll



My Generation doll


These are my two 18in dolls in their new ribbed sweaters. Its a nice easy pattern, the back and front is made in one piece (see photo) with the sleeves picked up at the shoulders and a button fastening at the back for ease of fit.  Its a bit fiddly with all the colour ends so leave a longish strand when changing colour for sewing the sleeve and side seams and, if I'm honest, usually end up knotting other ends where possible.

This pattern has been tested thanks to my sister, but mistakes can so easily slip by when transferring to my blog.  So please, if you find any mistakes or have any other query let me know in the comments section below.  Thanks and happy knitting.  

Actual measurements   Chest 14”/36cm, length from shoulder to hem 7”/18cm, sleeve seam 3”/8cm
You will need:   20g dk colour A, 10g for each colour B and C,  4mm straight needles, 1 small button

Abbreviations

k: knit, p: purl, st(s): stitch(es), tog: together, yrn: yarn round needle, inc: increase, patt: pattern, sl: slip st, psso: pass slipped stitch over

Tension (Gauge):
24sts x 32 rows using 4mm needles over rib pattern





Using 4mm needles and colour A cast on 43sts
Row 1   k1, p1 to last st, k1
Row 2   purl
These 2 rows form the rib pattern
Work 16 more rows in pattern
Fasten off colour A and change to colour B
Work 18 rows in pattern, place a marker at each end of row 14
Fasten off colour B and change to colour C
Work 10 rows in pattern
Shape Neck
patt 17, cast off 9sts in rib patt, patt 17            
Turn and continue on 17sts for right side
Row 1    purl
Row 2   k1, sl, k1, psso, patt to end   16sts
Row 3   purl
Rows 4-5   repeat last 2 rows           15sts
Rows 6-11   6 rows in patt
Row 12  cast on 8sts, (k1, p1) to last st, k1     23sts   
Row 13  buttonhole, purl to last 2sts, yrn, p2tog
Rows 14-25  12 rows in patt
Fasten off yarn and leave 23sts on a holder

Left Side

With colour C and wrong side facing rejoin yarn to remaining sts
Row 1    purl
Row 2    patt to last 2sts, k2tog       16sts
Row 3    purl
Row 4-5   repeat last 2 rows           15sts
Rows 6-12   7 rows in patt
Row 13    wrong side facing, cast on 8sts, k1, purl to end   23sts
Row 14    patt 20sts, k3
Row 15   k1, purl to end
Rows 16-23  repeat last 2 rows  4 times
Row 24    patt 20sts, k3
Row 25    cast off 3sts purl to end       20sts
Fasten off colour C and change to colour B
 
Join pieces
With right side facing patt across 20sts of left side, then continue across 23 sts of right side   43sts
Work 17 rows in patt, place a marker at each end of row 4
Fasten off colour B and change to colour A and work 18 rows in patt.  Cast off in rib pattern
 
Sleeves
Using 4mm needles, and colour A, with right side facing, pick up and knit 37sts evenly between markers around armhole edge.
Next row   purl
Beginning with the first row of pattern, and continuing with pattern, decrease 1 stitch at each end of row 7 then every following 6th row to 31sts.  Work 2 more rows in patt. (a total of 24 rows for sleeve)  Adjust length here if you want
Cast off in rib pattern
 
To finish
Sew sleeve and side seams.  Sew edge of placket to back of back opening. Sew on button to match buttonhole

wrong side of back opening



Monday, 29 August 2022

18" doll dress

 



This is my new Designer Friend 18" doll so I've been busy adapting some of my other patterns to fit.  My first attempt is this top down dress, knit from the neck down in one piece, with a back seam, using straight needles throughout.  I added a back opening to make it easier to dress the doll.  The dress will fit most 18" dolls  

The pattern has been tested (thanks to my sister) but mistakes can easily slip by so if you find and errors or have problems with the pattern please leave a comment below


Actual measurements: Dress: Chest 14”, length from shoulder to hem 9”

You will need: 50g dk yarn, 4mm (US 6) and 3.25 (US 3) needles, 2 10mm buttons
Tension (Gauge):  24sts x 28 rows x 4” (10cm) using 4mm needles over stocking stitch
Abbreviations  
k: knit,     p: purl,    st(s): stitch(es),    tog: together,    yf: yarn forward       
gs: garter stitch - every row knit,    rs: right side facing,    ws: wrong side facing
slst:  slip stitch
ssk:  Slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time onto right hand needle, then knit through back loops together, or use slip 1, k1 pass slipped stitch over
kfb: increase by knitting into first loop then knit into back loop of same stitch

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 51sts
Work 2 rows gs
Buttonhole row   k2tog, yf k to end
Next row   k3, (kfb, k5) 8 times,    59sts
Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, begin yoke shaping:
Row 1         k6 (yf, k2, yf, k12) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k9           67sts
Row 2         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 3         k7 (yf, k2, yf, k14) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k10        75sts
Row 4         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 5         k8 (yf, k2, yf, k16) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k11        83sts
Row 6         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 7         k9 (yf, k2, yf, k18) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k12        91sts
Row 8         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3                                          
Row 9         k10 (yf, k2, yf, k20) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k13      99sts                          
Row 10       k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 11       Buttonhole row k2tog, yf, k9 (yf, k2, yf, k22) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k14 107sts
Row 12      k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 13       k12 (yf, k2, yf, k24) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k15      115sts                        
Row 14       k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 15       k13 (yf, k2, yf, k26) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k16      123sts                        
Row 16       cast off 3sts, purl to last 3sts, k3              120sts
Row 17       k14 (yf, k2, yf, k28) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k14      128sts                        
Row 18       (p16, k32, p16)  x 2
Row  19      (k16, cast off 32, k16) x 2
 
Change to 3.25 needles
Join backs and front:   ws facing, K15, slst, knit first stitch of front, psso,  knit across 30sts front, slst, knit first stitch of back, psso, k15           62sts
Work 4 rows in gs
Inc row  rs facing, k1, (kfb) x 11, k8,  (kfb) x 22, k8, (kfb) x 11, k1    106sts

Skirt
Change to 4mm needles
Next row    purl 
Begin skirt pattern
Row 1    k1, (k2tog, yf, k6) to last stitch, k1
Row 2    purl
Row 3    knit
Row 4    purl
Row 5    k5 (k2tog, yf, k6) to last 4sts, k2tog, yf, k3
Row 6   purl 
Row 7   knit
Row 8   purl
These 8 rows form the pattern.  Repeat 8 rows of pattern 2 times, then rows 1 to 6
 
Hem pattern
Row 1    k1, (k3, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, ssk)) rep to last stitch, k1
Row 2    purl
Row 3    k2, (k1, k2tog, yf, k3, yf, ssk) rep to end
Row 4    purl
Row 5    k1, (s1, k2tog, psso, yf, k5, yf) rep to last stitch, k1
Rows 6-8    knit 3 rows garter stitch
Cast off loosely
 
To Finish off
Sew back seam.  Sew placket of back opening on wrong side.  Sew on 2 buttons to match buttonhole.  Finish off all ends, block skirt to avoid hem curling up.



 


Tuesday, 11 February 2020

12" Baby doll dress




Here is a simple little dress for 12" baby dolls.  The dress is knit in one piece from the neck down with a back fastening for easy fit and can be made on either straight needles with a back seam, or in the round, using double pointed needles.  It's an  easy pattern and great for new knitters or anyone wanting to practise knitting in the round.  

The dress fits a 12" baby doll but could easily be made to fit smaller dolls by using size smaller needles.

You will need:  50g double knitting yarn, (I used King Cole Cherished, lemon), 4mm (US 6) and 3.25mm (US 3) needles (or dpns for knitting in the round), one small button

A few people have asked about knitting this dress with longer sleeves so here it is.  However, this hasn't been tested so if you have any problems or ideas for improvements please let me know so I can make amendments.  

For longer sleeves:

Do not work row 15, follow instructions as follows: 

Wind off 2 lots of 10g yarn for sleeves.  (Take this from centre of ball if necessary)

Knit 1 row, do not fasten off main yarn.

Wrong side facing : Slip next 13sts onto a thread, slip next 26sts onto right hand needle (first sleeve) slip next 26sts onto a thread, slip next 26sts onto right hand needle (second sleeve) slip remaining 13sts onto a thread.   You now have two sets of 26sts for sleeves on your needle

Right side facing, using a 10g ball of yarn, work across first set of 26sts as follows:  (you can knit both sleeves together with the separate yarns if you like)

Beginning with a knit row work 10 rows stocking stitch (check the length on your doll)

Change to 3.25 needles

Decrease row:   k2, (kfb, K4) 4 times   22sts

Work 3 rows in garter stitch (every row knit) cast off.  Leave a thread for sewing seam.

Work second sleeve as first sleeve.

Continue with pattern from:  change to 3.25 needles and join backs and front

For knitting in the round

Instead of casting off the two sets of 26sts for the sleeves, slip them onto a thread. 

When skirt is complete slip the sleeves sts onto dpns and follow instructions for sleeve



If you have any problems downloading the pattern, or any other queries,  please leave a comment at the foot of the post or use the contact form




Tuesday, 17 September 2019

Barbie flares and top




This is another Barbie outfit inspired by my lovely granddaughters.  The thing is I remember flares from the first time around in the 70s lol

The flares are knit from the waist down with instructions for Curvy Barbie in blue brackets.  The top is knit from the front hem in one piece to the back with incorporated sleeves.  It will fill all Barbie dolls.  

I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know in the comments below.   Thanks


To fit: 12” Regular Barbie, Curvy and Tall Barbie Fashionista dolls
Instructions for Curvy Barbie are in brackets
You will need:  Flares: 25g double knitting yarn, top 25g double knitting yarn (I used Sirdar Snuggly)
Needles 3.25 (US 3) and 3.75mm (US 5), 2 small buttons for the top
Tension:  24sts and 30rows over 4 in (10cm) (stocking stitch) using 3.75 needles
Abbreviations:  see top panel


Flares
Using 3.25 needles cast on 26sts (30)
Work 4 rows k1, p1 rib
Inc row  (kfb, k1) 2 times, knit to last 4sts (kfb, k1) 2 times   30sts (34)
Change to 3.75 needles

Shape back
Row 1   purl
Row 2   kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1 32sts (36)
Row 3   purl
Repeat last 2 rows to 40sts (44)


Divide for legs
Rs, Kfb, k17, (19) kfb, k1 turn, leave remaining sts on a holder
Continue on 22sts (24) for right leg
** Beginning with a purl row work 5 rows ss
dec 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4th row to  14sts (16)
work 5 rows ss
Shape flare
Row 1      rs, (kfb, k7 (7)) 2 times
Rows 2-4 purl, knit, purl
Row 5      (kfb, k8 (9)) 2 times
Rows 6-8 purl, knit, purl
Continue increasing 2sts on each 4th row as set to 24sts (26)
Work 5 rows ss, adjust length here if you want
Cast off loosely

Left leg
With rs facing, rejoin yarn to remaining sts at centre front, kfb, knit to last 2sts, kfb, k1  22sts (24) Continue as right leg from **
To finish
Sew leg and back seams.  Fasten off all ends

To knit on double point needles
Rounds start at centre back. Join each leg into round.  Follow pattern working in knit stitches only 

Top (fits all Barbie dolls)
Using 3.25 needles cast on 22sts
Work 2 rows gs
Change to 3.75 needles and work 6 rows ss
Shape sleeves
Rows 1-2 Cast on 4sts at beg of next 2 rows   30sts
Row 3      knit
Row 4      k1, purl to last st k1
Rows 5-8 repeat 2 rows 2 times
Row 9      knit
Row 10    k1, p9, k10, p9, k1   
Row 11    k11, cast off 8sts, k to end
Continue on 11sts for right back
Row 1      k1, purl to last st, k1
Row 2      knit
Row 3      k1, purl to last st, k1
Row 4      cast on 5sts, k to end    16sts
Row 5      k1, purl to last 2sts, k2
Row 6      k2tog, yf, knit to end
Row 7      k1, purl to last 2sts, k2
Row 8      knit
Rows 9-12   rep last 2 rows 2 times
Row 13    cast off 4sts p to last 2sts, k2       12sts
Row14     knit
Row 15    purl to last 2sts k2
Repeat last 2 rows 1 time
Row 18    k2tog, yf, knit to end
Row 20    purl to last 2sts k2
Change to 3.25 needles and work 2 rows gs
Cast off

Left back
Rejoin yarn to remaining 11sts, ws facing
Row 1      k1, purl to last st, k1
Row 2      knit
Row 3      k1, purl to last st, k1
Row 4      knit
Row 5      cast on 5sts, k2, purl to last st, k1    16sts
Row 6      knit
Row 7      k2, purl to last st, k1
Row 8-11 rep last 2 rows 2 times
Rows 12  cast off 4sts knit to end     12sts
Work 5 rows ss keeping 2st gs border
Change to 3.25 needles and work 2 rows gs

To finish
Sew and sleeve seams.  Sew on 2 buttons to match buttonholes. Fasten off all ends.  Embroider a motif in duplicate stitch on the front as shown if you like. 















Saturday, 27 July 2019

Barbie summer dress






The dress is knit from the top down with a back fastening for easy fit and a centre back seam.  For the striped dress work 2 rows each of contrasting colours or add a few stripes in the skirt and embellish with a pearl button  The dress will fit Regular Barbie, Curvy and Tall Barbie Fashionista dolls and most other 12" fashion dolls

I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know in the comments below.   Thanks


You will need:  approx 25g double knitting yarn (I used Sirdar Snuggly)
Needles size 3.25 (US 3) and 3.75mm  (US 5)
Tension:  24 stitches, 30 rows to 10cm/4" (stocking stitch) using 3.75 needles

Abbreviations: see side panel

To knit in the round using double point needles, follow pattern to row 8 then join into round, work in knit sts only and knit one row, purl one row for garter stitch.   Rounds begin at centre back.



Using 3.25 needles cast on 38sts
rows start at centre back
Row 1        k2, purl to last st, k1
Change to 3.75 needles
Row 2        rs, k6, (kfb, k8) 3 times kfb, k2, yf, k2tog      42sts
Row 3        k2, p4, cast off 8sts, p12 (includes st on right hand needle), cast off 8sts, p7, k1
Row 4        k8, cast on 3sts, k12, cast on 3sts, k6          32sts        
Row 5        k2, purl to last st, k1
Row 6        knit                                                  
Row 7        k2, purl to last st, k1
Row 8        cast off 2sts k6, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k6            28sts
Row 9        purl 
(for Tall barbie knit 2 more rows ss)      
Change to 3.25 needles               
Row 10-14  knit 5 rows garter stitch
Row 14      ws, pfb 28 times   56sts
Continue for Skirt
Change to 3.75 needles
Beginning with a knit row work 24 rows ss – adjust length here if you want
Work 4 rows gs   cast off loosely

To finish
Sew centre back seam and slip stitch back fastening in place.  Sew on button to match buttonhole.


Friday, 8 March 2019

Baby Annabell Sleeping Bag






I wish there had been a knitting pattern for a sleeping bag when my children were babies (a long time ago now) and as I haven't got any babies to knit for what better than to make one for Annabell. 


 I tried a few different variations to try and reduce seaming etc, and came up with this one that is made in one piece from the hem with a front seam (easily knit in the round to the front opening)  The sleeves are knit first then added to the body to begin the yoke. 

My very helpful tester suggested that the sleeping bag could be altered for a 12” doll by making 3 fewer stitches on each side front and the back 6 fewer, and just 1 row of stocking stitch on the sleeves after increases are done. You would have to adjust the stitches of shaping of the yoke to match.  





Measurements:   14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll
Actual measurements: 
Chest 14”, Sleeve seam 3” length from centre back to hem 12”
Materials: 100g double knitting yarn in main and 10g dk in contrast
(I used King Cole Cherish Whisper, and King Cole Cherish nickel for contrast), 
Needles size 3.25mm (US3) and 4mm (US 6) 4 small buttons
Tension: 22sts - 28 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles
  
 Sleeves make 2 – (knit these first)
Using 3.25 needles and contrast, cast on 24sts
Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib
Change to 4mm needles and main
Working in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row to 30sts
Work 9 rows ss
Shape armholes
Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows
Leave 24sts on holder

Body

Worked in one piece to front opening
Using 4mm needles cast on 100sts
Continue in ss until work measures 8ins
(can be knit in the round to this point then change to rows)

Cast of 3sts at the beg of next 2 rows   94sts
Work a further 11 rows ss
Divide for armholes
Wrong side facing
P19, cast off 6sts, p44 (includes st on right hand needle) cast off 6sts, p19 do not fasten off yarn

Join sleeves
Work across right front:  K4, (k2tog) 3 times, k9, knit across 24sts of first sleeve, continue across back:  k14, (k2tog) 8 times, k14, knit across 24sts of second sleeve, continue across left front:  k9, (k2tog) 3 times, k4
116sts
Next row (wrong side):  knit across all sts

Shape yoke
Row 1:  k14, ssk, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2tog, k32, ssk, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2tog, k14           108sts
Row 2:  knit               
Row 3:  k13, ssk, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2tog, k30, ssk, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2tog, k13           100sts
Row 4:  purl               
Row 5:  k12, ssk, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2tog, k28, ssk, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2tog, k12           92sts
Row 6:  purl       
Row 7:  k11, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k26, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k11           84sts
Continue decreasing as set to 52sts
Next row:  p25, p2tog, p25    51sts
Change to 3.25mm needles and contrast, work 4rows k1, p1 rib.  Cast off (you can go straight to picking up sts for left band if you prefer)

 


Left front band

With right side facing, using 3.25mm needles, and contrast, pick up and knit 25sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts.  Work 5 rows p1, k1 rib.  Cast off


Right front band

With right side facing, using 3.25 needles, and contrast, pick up and knit 25sts along right front edge starting at first set of cast off sts to neck edge.  Work 2 rows p1, k1 rib.
Buttonhole row:  rib2, (yf, k2tog, rib 4) 3 times, yf, k2tog, k3
Rib 2 rows.    Cast off

To finish

Sew centre front seam to opening, Overlap front bands and sew into place at centre front.
Sew front and backs together at hem
Sew sleeve and underarms seams
Sew on 4 buttons to match buttonholes.
Sew in all ends