Baby Annabell Sleeping Bag

I wish there had been a knitting pattern for a sleeping bag when my children were babies (a long time ago now) and as I haven't got any babies to knit for what better than to make one for Annabell. 

 I tried a few different variations to try and reduce seaming etc, and came up with this one that is made in one piece from the hem with a front seam (easily knit in the round to the front opening)  The sleeves are knit first then added to the body to begin the yoke. 

My very helpful tester suggested that the sleeping bag could be altered for a 12” doll by making 3 fewer stitches on each side front and the back 6 fewer, and just 1 row of stocking stitch on the sleeves after increases are done. You would have to adjust the stitches of shaping of the yoke to match.  

Measurements:   14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll

Actual measurements: 

Chest 14”, Sleeve seam 3” length from centre back to hem 12”

Materials: 100g double knitting yarn in main and 10g dk in contrast

(I used King Cole Cherish Whisper, and King Cole Cherish nickel for contrast), 

Needles size 3.25mm (US3) and 4mm (US 6) 4 small buttons

Tension: 22sts - 28 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles

  

 Sleeves make 2 – (knit these first)

Using 3.25 needles and contrast, cast on 24sts

Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib

Change to 4mm needles and main

Working in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4^th row to 30sts
Work 9 rows ss

Shape armholes

Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows

Leave 24sts on holder

Body

Worked in one piece to front opening

Using 4mm needles cast on 100sts

Continue in ss until work measures 8ins

(can be knit in the round to this point then change to rows)

Cast of 3sts at the beg of next 2 rows   94sts

Work a further 11 rows ss

Divide for armholes

Wrong side facing

P19, cast off 6sts, p44 (includes st on right hand needle) cast off 6sts, p19 do not fasten off yarn

Join sleeves

Work across right front:  K4, (k2tog) 3 times, k9, knit across 24sts of first sleeve, continue across back:  k14, (k2tog) 8 times, k14, knit across 24sts of second sleeve, continue across left front:  k9, (k2tog) 3 times, k4

116sts

Next row (wrong side):  knit across all sts

Shape yoke

Row 1:  k14, ssk, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2tog, k32, ssk, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2tog, k14           108sts

Row 2:  knit               

Row 3:  k13, ssk, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2tog, k30, ssk, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2tog, k13           100sts

Row 4:  purl               

Row 5:  k12, ssk, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2tog, k28, ssk, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2tog, k12           92sts

Row 6:  purl       

Row 7:  k11, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k26, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k11           84sts

Continue decreasing as set to 52sts

Next row:  p25, p2tog, p25    51sts

Change to 3.25mm needles and contrast, work 4rows k1, p1 rib.  Cast off (you can go straight to picking up sts for left band if you prefer)

 

Left front band

With right side facing, using 3.25mm needles, and contrast, pick up and knit 25sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts.  Work 5 rows p1, k1 rib.  Cast off

Right front band

With right side facing, using 3.25 needles, and contrast, pick up and knit 25sts along right front edge starting at first set of cast off sts to neck edge.  Work 2 rows p1, k1 rib.

Buttonhole row:  rib2, (yf, k2tog, rib 4) 3 times, yf, k2tog, k3

Rib 2 rows.    Cast off

To finish

Sew centre front seam to opening, Overlap front bands and sew into place at centre front.

Sew front and backs together at hem

Sew sleeve and underarms seams

Sew on 4 buttons to match buttonholes.

Sew in all ends

PDF pattern to download

Barbie Aran

Aran Jacket

Sweater 

This is an easy aran pattern of stocking stitch with 4 rows cable repeat.  
The sweater has a back neck fastening for easy fit.  I sewed the side seams to the end of the rib which gives it a more up to date look.  If you want a longer sweater, or even a dress, just do a few more rows of pattern.

I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form.   Thanks

Materials:  30g double knitting yarn, small button for sweater, 4 small buttons for cardigan, Needles size 3.25 and 3.75mm, cable needle

Measurements: to fit 11/12” fashion doll, and Barbie Fashionista dolls

Tension: 24sts x 32rows over Stocking stitch x 4” using no 3.75 needles

Special Abbreviations: C4b: slip next 2sts onto cable needle and leave at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

Sweater

Front

Using 3.25 needles cast on 20sts

Work k1, p1 rib for 3 rows

Next row:  rib 5, pfb, kfb, rib 6, pfb, kfb, rib 5   (24sts)

Change to 3.75 needles

Row 1:   k4 (p1, c4b, p1, k4) 2 times

Row 2:   p4 (k1, p4, k1 p4) 2 times

Row 3:   k4 (p1, k4, p1, k4) 2 times

Row 2:   p4 (k1, p4, k1 p4) 2 times

These 4 rows form the pattern, rep 3 times then rows 1 and 2 (total of 18 patterns rows)

Armhole shaping

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows    20sts*

Work a further 8 rows in pattern

Shape neck

Row 1:  patt 5, k2tog, turn

Continue on 6sts for left front

Row 2:  patt to end

Row 3:  patt to last 2sts, k2tog      5sts

Row 4:  patt to end

Cast off 5sts, leave a thread for sewing shoulder seam.

With right side facing, slip next 6st onto a thread, re-join yarn and continue for right front

Row 1:  k2tog, patt to end    6sts

Row 2:  patt to end

Row 3:  k2tog, patt to end   5sts

Row 4:  patt to end

Cast off 5sts, leave a thread for sewing shoulder seam

Back

As front to *

Work a further 12 rows in pattern

Cast off 5sts at beg of next 2 rows

Do not fasten off yarn, continue for neckband

Right side facing, change to 3.25 needles

Knit across 10sts of back, pick up and knit 6sts down left front, knit 6sts left on thread, then 6sts up right front.  28sts

Row 1:  cast on 3sts, (for back fastening) k1, p1 rib to end  31sts

Row 2:  rib to last 2sts, yon, k2tog

Cast off in rib

Sew left shoulder seam, sew right shoulder seam to rib. 

Sleeves

With right side facing and no 3.75 needles pick up and knit 18sts around arm edge excluding cast off sts. see photo

Work 19 rows ss, placing a marker at each end of 3^th row

Change to 3.25 needles and work 3 rows k1, p1 rib

Cast off in rib, leave a thread for sewing seam.

To finish

Sew up sleeve seam to markers, Sew side (i sewed the side seam to rib) and underarm seams

Sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole on neck

Finish off all ends

Cardigan

Back

As back of sweater. Fasten off yarn and leave 10sts on holder

Left front

Using 3.25 needles cast on 10sts

Work k1, p1 rib for 3 rows

Next row:  rib 3, pfb, kfb, rib 5    (12sts)

Change to 3.75 needles

Row 1:  k4, p1, c4b, p1, k2

Row 2:  p2 k1, p4, k1 p4

Row 3:  k4, p1, p4, p1, k2

Row 2:  p2 k1, p4, k1 p4

These 4 rows form the pattern, rep 3 times then rows 1 and 2 (total of 18 patterns rows)

Armhole shaping

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 2sts, patt to end 10sts

Work a further 8 rows in pattern

Shape neck

Row 1: ws, cast off 3sts, patt to end   7sts

Row 2: patt to last 2sts, k2tog

Row 3: patt to end

Row 4:   patt to last 2sts, k2tog

Row 5:   patt to end

Cast off 5sts

Leave a thread for sewing seam

Right front

Using 3.25 needles cast on 10sts

Work k1, p1 rib for 3 rows

Next row:  rib 5, pfb, kfb, rib 3    (12sts)

Change to 3.75 needles

Row 1:  k2, p1, c4b, p1, k4

Row 2:  p4 k1, p4, k1 p2

Row 3:  k2, p1, p4, p1, k4

Row 2:  p4 k1, p4, k1 p2

These 4 rows form the pattern, rep 3 times then rows 1 to 3 (total of 19 patterns rows)

Armhole shaping

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 2sts, patt to end 10sts

Work a further 8 rows in pattern

Shape neck

Row 1: rs, cast off 3sts, patt to end   7sts

Row 2: patt to end

Row 3: k2tog, patt to end

Row 4:  patt to end

Row 5:  k2tog, patt to end

Cast off 5sts leave thread for sewing

Sleeves as sweater

Neckband

Sew shoulder seams

using 3.25 needles, beg at right front edge, right side facing pick up and knit 6sts up right front, k10 across back, pick up and knit 6sts down left front.  22sts

work 3 rows k1, p1 rib,  cast off

Left front band

Using 3.25 needles, rs facing, pick up and knit 28sts along left front edge, from neck to hem.  Work 3 rows k1, p1 rib   cast off

Right front band

Using 3.25 needles, rs facing, pick up and knit 28sts along right front edge, from hem to neck.  Work 1 row k1, p1 rib

Buttonhole row:  p1, (k2tog, yf, rib 6) 3 times, k2tog, yf rib 1

Work 1 row rib.     cast off

To finish

Sew up sleeve seam to markers, Sew side and underarm seams

Sew on small buttons to correspond with buttonholes

Finish off all ends

  

Hat

Using 3.25 needles cast on 32sts and

work 7 rows k1, p1 rib

Rib 3, (pfb, kfb, rib 6) 3 times, pfb, kfb rib 3    40sts

Change to 3.75 needles

Row 1:   k2, (p1, c4b, p1, k4) 3 times, p1, c4b, p1, k2

Row 2:   p2, (k1, p4, k1, p4) 3 times, k1 p4, k1, p2

Row 3:   k2, (p1, k4, p1, k4) 3 times, p1, k4, p1, k2

Row 4:   p2, (k1, p4, k1, p4) 3 times, k1 p4, k1, p2

These 4 rows form the pattern. Rep rows 1 and 2

Shape top

Row 1:   k2tog, (p1, k4, p1, k2tog, skk) 3 times, p1, k4, p1 skk      32sts

Row 2:   p1 (k1, p4, k1, p2) 3 times, k1, p4, k1, p1

Row 3:   k2tog (c4b, k2tog, skk) 3 times, c4b, skk          24sts

Row 4:   p2tog across row   12sts

Row 5:    k2tog across row    6sts

Fasten off yarn and thread yarn through remaining 6sts pull firmly, sew seam

Finish all ends

Make a small pompom and sew on top of hat

PDF pattern to download

Barbie Jumpsuit

There are so many gorgeous jumpsuits around at the moment.  I just love those mid calf sparkly ones, great for the season's parties.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find any suitable sparkly yarn for these so chose a mix of trendy colours instead.  I used Sirdar Snuggly which is a lovely soft yarn and not too thick,  (some budget yarns knit up a lot bigger)   

The suit is knit from the neck down with a back fastening for ease of fit, and a belt.  I've given instructions for a basic model Barbie with variations for Curvy and Tall Fashionistas.  These can be made in the round quite easily.  I made the raspberry suit on 3.75 circular needles using the magic loop method.  Instructions can be found here:

how to knit magic loop

I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form.   Thanks

Here's a link for the pattern to download and print.  Unfortunately this doesn't always work with mobile devices, thats why I post the full pattern on this page

PDF pattern to download

To fit: 12” Regular Barbie, Curvy and Tall Barbie Fashionista dolls

You will need:  approx 20g double knitting yarn  (I used Sirdar Snuggly)

Needles size 3.25 and 3.75mm   (either spns or dpns) 2 small buttons for back fastening, 2 small buttons for front decoration

Tension:  28sts and 32rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.75 needles

Abbreviations:  See side panel

The pattern fits a regular Barbie with variations for Curvy Barbie in brown and Tall Barbie in green

knit from the top down, rows start at centre back

Using 3.75 single point needles cast on 38sts

Row 1    k2, purl to last 2sts, k2

Row 2    buttonhole (right side) k2tog, yf, k3, kfb, k7, kfb, k8, kfb, k7, kfb, k7 42sts

Row 3    k2, p7, cast off 7sts, p12, cast off 7sts, p5, k2

Row 4    k7, cast on 3sts, k12, cast on 3sts, k9              34sts

Row 5    k2, purl to last 2sts, k2

Row 6    knit                                                  

Row 7 to 14    as rows 5 to 6, making 2^nd buttonhole as before on row 10

Row 15   cast off 2sts, purl to end*                     32sts

For Tall Barbie work 2 extra rows stocking stitch

For Curvy Barbie work 2 extra rows as follows:

Row 16   (kfb, k1) 3 times k to last 6sts, (kfb, k1) 3 times   

Row 17   purl           38sts

Shape back

Row 1     kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1

Row 2     purl

Repeat last 2 rows to 48sts (Curvy Barbie 52sts)

Divide for legs

K24, (Curvy Barbie 26sts) turn, leave remaining sts on a holder

Continue for right leg

** Work 28 rows stocking stitch for shorter legs

I did 28 rows brown set, 18 rows green set and 32 rows rasberry, but check the length on your doll

Cast off.

Left leg

Rejoin yarn to remaining 24sts, (Curvy Barbie 26sts) at centre front, knit to end Continue as right leg from **

For tapered trousers

As trousers above to **

For each leg work 32 rows stocking stitch, dec 1 stitch at each end of 9^th then every 4^th row to 14sts. cast off

For Curvy Barbie dec 1 stitch at each end of 5^th and then every 4^th row to 14sts.

Belt

Using 3.25 spnds cast on 60sts, 

Cast off.  Fasten off ends and press lightly to flatten

To finish

Sew leg and back seams.  Slip stitch under flap of back opening in place.  Sew 2 buttons to match buttonholes at the back

Make loops to keep the belt in place.  With the jumpsuit on the doll, tie belt around doll.  On each side of the waist sew a loop around the belt and secure at the reverse side of the jumpsuit.  

I sewed 2 small buttons on the front bodice for decoration

To knit on double point needles

Use single point needles to shape back then change to dpns

Rounds start at centre back.  Follow pattern working in knit stitches only