Barbie ribbed sweater

This little sweater is very similar to my Teddy ribbed jacket, same simple rib and the current trend of block colours.   Made in 4ply it takes less than 20g of yarn great for using up all those tiny amounts.  The pink/blue and white sweater was made in oddments of Rico 4ply but unfortunately its now out of production (shows how long i had it stashed away).  For the mustard/green and grey sweater I used Stylecraft life 4ply which has a great range of trendy colours.  

The back and front is made in one piece (see photo) with the sleeves picked up at the shoulders and a button fastening at the back for ease of fit The back is slightly longer than the front but can be simply adjusted to any length you want.  I have done short sleeves but can be made longer before starting the decreasing.  Its a bit fiddly with all those ends so I leave a longish strand when changing colour for sewing seams and, if I'm honest, usually end up knotting other ends where possible. 

Pattern

To fit: 12 in Barbie (as the sweater is a loose style it would also fit the Fashionista dolls) 

Materials: approx 10g each of 4ply yarn in 3  colours

Needles size  3.25mm (US3)  (if you want a tighter fit use 3mm needles, 1 small button

Tension: 28sts and 36 rows over 4 in (ribbed pattern) using 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, st:stitch, sl: slip patt: pattern, beg: beginning,  yf: yarn forward, dec: decrease, tog: together, psso: pass slipped st over

front and Back 

knit in one piece from front hem to back hem

Cast on 25sts in colour A

Row 1   knit

Row 2  (k1, p1) to last st, k1

These two rows form the pattern, repeat 5 times (12rows patt)

Change to colour B and patt 12 rows (place a marker at each end of 10th row)

Change to colour C, patt 6 rows,

Divide for neck

Patt 9sts, cast of next 7sts, patt to end turn

Working on 9sts for right front

row 1       (wrong side)  Patt to end                                

row 2        sl1, k1, psso, patt to end                                      

rows 3:4:  Repeat last 2 rows  (7sts)                                              

rows 5:7:  Patt 3 rows                                                                         

row 8:      cast on 6sts, patt to end (keeping patt correct)  13sts        

row 9:      patt  to end

row 10:    Buttonhole row:  k2tog, yf, patt to end                                           

row 11:18:    pattern 7 rows

Fast off yarn keep 13sts on needle

Rejoin colour C to remaining 9 sts, left front wrong side facing 

row 1:       patt to end

row 2:       patt to last 2sts, k2tog

rows 3:4:  Repeat last 2 rows  (7sts) 

rows 5:8:  Patt 4rows                                                                         

row 9:       cast on 5sts, patt to end (keeping patt correct)  12sts        

row 10:18:   patt  9 rows                                                                                 

Fasten off colour C, join colour B

Pattern across 12sts, then continue across right front    25sts

Work 11 rows patt in B, change to A and work 16 rows (adjust length here if you want)

Fasten off yarn

Sleeves

Using colour B, and 3.25 needles, pick up and knit 19sts along edge between markers

Beg with the second row of patt, work 13 rows pattern at the same time dec 1 st at each end of 6th row.  17sts

Cast off

Sew side and sleeve seams, sew on small button to match buttonhole. fasten off ends

Barbie Santa dress and hat

I made this Santa dress and hat last Christmas but didn't get round to writing up the pattern.  Its so quick and easy to knit up, with only one back seam.  I used a scrap of Sirdar Snuggly Snowflake yarn I had left and about 25 g of red dk yarn I had in my stash.   There's a back opening for easy fit and I had a lovely black button with a silver edge which is great as a buckle for the belt.  You could use any black or red button or maybe stitch with silver thread.  

Please let me know if you find any mistakes in the pattern so I can amend it. 

To fit 12 in Barbie (latest model)

You will need:  Approx 25g of double knitting yarn in red and 10g white snowflake (I used Sirdar Snuggly snowflake dk) or eyelash yarn, small amount of black dk

Needle size 3.75mm (US5), 2 Small red buttons for back opening, button for belt

Tension 24 sts and 28 rows over 4 in, on 3.75 needles and stocking stitch

Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, ss: stocking stitch (one row plain, one row purl), garter stitch: every row knit, inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, slst: slip stitch. tog: together, m1: make one by picking up loop between sts and knit into back, yf: yarn forward

Using white yarn, cast on 60sts

Work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit) fasten off white

Change to red

Work 20 rows stocking stitch 

Change to black

Dec row: k2tog across row (30sts)

k2, (k2tog, k4) 4 times, k2tog, k2 (25sts)

Work 2 rows garter stich

Change to red

Cast on 2st knit to end

k2, purl to last 2sts, k2, 

Knit

K2, purl, k2

Repeat last 2 rows

(buttonhole row) k12, m1,k1, m1, k3, m1,k1, m1, k8, yf, k2tog (31sts) row 7

Work 3 rows stocking stitch keeping garter st borders

Armhole shaping:

Row 1: k8, cast off 2, k13, cast off 2, k6

Row 2: k2, p4, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p6, k2

Row 3: k6, *k2tog, k7, k2tog,** k4, k2tog, k3, repeat from * to ** k2,yf, k2tog

Row 4: k2, purl, k2

Change to white yarn

Work 2 rows garter stitch.    Cast off  

sew back seam to garter st border, overlap back borders and slst in place. sew on buttons to match buttonholes. sew button on front of belt.  fasten off all ends

Hat

Using white yarn cast on 30sts,

Work 4 rows garter stitch fasten off yarn (leave a length for sewing)

Change to red

Work 4 rows stocking stitch

row 1: k2, (k2tog, k5) 4 times

row 2: purl

row 3: k2, (k2tog, k4) 4 times

row 4: purl

row 5: k2, (k2tog, k3) 4 times

row 6: purl

row 7: k2, (k2tog, k2) 4 times

row 8: purl

row 9: k2, (k2tog, k1) 4 times (10 sts)

row 10: p2 tog across row (5sts)

Break off yarn leaving and thread yarn through remaining 5sts

Secure with a stitch and use yarn to sew up seam

Using white yarn, crochet a few stitches in top of hat for pompom

Barbie knitted dresses

This is the first knitted dress pattern I made for Barbie, although it has been updated a few times.  

The first style is in two colours and knit in one piece with a centre back seam

I couldn't resist adding a crochet collar as they were very popular at the time.  The  collar is made using 4ply cotton yarn and because a bit closer fit around the neckline I included a back opening for an easy fit.

Double knitting yarns can vary in thickness which can make a big difference to sizing in a small garment such as these knitted dresses. Budget yarns tend to be thicker than better quality yarns and although would not give such a close fit, will work well.

I used King Cole Comfort double knitting. If you want a looser fit use a no 9 needle throughout (after checking your tension) The key is to keep fitting the dress against the doll as you knit, and as they are so quick to knit, can easily be redone. 

When finishing the dress I sew a few securing stitches at each side of the armholes as sharp Barbie fingers can easily snag knitted garments.

Both dresses can easily be made in the round, noting that the round begins at centre back. You will need to change to rows for the back opening if making the dress with collar. 

To fit: 12” Barbie (latest model) and most 12" fashion dolls

Materials:

Two colour dress

Approx 50g double knitting yarn in main and 25g contrast

Needles size 3.25 (US 3)

Dress with crochet collar

50g double knitting yarn in main, Small amount of 4ply cotton yarn

needles size 3.25 (US 3), no 2 crochet hook, small button

Tension: 28sts and 32 rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yf: yarn forward, rep: repeat, ss: stocking stitch, sl st, slip stitch, m1: pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, k: knit, p: purl, dec: decrease, ch: chain

Dress Two Colour Dress

(for plain dress use main colour only)

Using main colour cast on 28sts,

Work 2 rows k1 p1 rib

Work 10 rows ss (lengthen here if required)

Next row: K7, m1,k14,m1 k to end (30sts)

Work 9 rows ss

Next row: k2, (k2tog,k4) 4 times, k2tog, k2 (25 sts)

Work 3 rows stocking stitch

Join contrast and work 2 rows ss*

Next row: K10, m1,k1,m1,k3,m1,k1,m1,k 10 (29sts)

Work 3 rows ss

Armhole shaping

Next row: k6, cast off 2, k13, cast off 2, k to end

Next row: p6, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p6

Next row: k4, k2tog, k7, k2tog,k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4 (34sts)

Next row: purl.

Cast off

To Finish Sew centre back seam using

mattress stitch. finish all ends

Dress with crochet collar

Work as two colour dress to * (if knitting plain dress use main colour yarn only)

Next row: cast on 2sts, K12, m1, k1, m1, k3,

m1,k1,m1,k10 (31sts)

Work 3 rows ss

Armhole shaping

Next row: k8, cast off 2, k13, cast off 2, k to end

Next row: k2, p4, cast on 7sts, p13, cast on 7sts, p6, k2

Next row: k6, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k4 (36sts)

Next row: (buttonhole row) k2, purl to last 2sts, yf, k2tog

Cast off

Collar

Using no 2 crochet hook and 4 ply cotton (or other 4ply yarn) make 31ch

Next row: work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook. Dc in each ch to end (30dc) turn

Next row: 1ch, *(1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next dc, miss 2dc,** rep from * to ** to end

(10 clusters) break off yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.

Slip stitch collar around neck edge, right side facing. (beg after gs right back edging and end at gs left edging)

To finish

Sew centre back seam to back opening, using mattress stitch. Sl st bottom of gs edge in place. sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole.

Barbie Witches dress and hat

A witches dress and hat for Barbie in two different colourways.  The skirt is made using the feather and fan pattern which gives a nice ruffled effect and the bodice is either plain or striped.  The dress is made in one piece with a centre back seam. 

I tried this pattern using a multi-colour yarn which makes a lovely little dress.

To fit: 12 in Barbie (latest model)

Materials: approx 25g double knitting yarn in black, small amounts of 3 contrast colours

Needles size 3.25 (US3), and 3.75 (US5)

Tension: 28sts and 32 rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles

Abbreviations: beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yon: yarn on needle, rep: repeat, ss: stocking

stitch, m1 pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, k: knit, p: purl, dec: decrease

Orange and black dress

Main Body (work in one piece to armhole)

Using 3.75 needles and black cast on 63sts,

Work 2 rows in garter stitch (every row knit)

Change to orange yarn

1st row: *(k2tog) 2 times, (yon, k1) 3 times, k2tog, **, rep from * to** to end of row

2nd row: knit

Change to black yarn

3rd row: knit

4th row: purl ***

Repeat these 4 pattern rows 4 times

Change to no 3.25 needles

Next row: (k2, k2tog) 15 times, k3 (48sts)

Work 3 row ss

Next row: (k2tog) across row (24sts)

Work 5 rows ss

****Next row: k6, m1, k12, m1, k6 (26sts)

Next row: purl

Next row: k7, m1, k12, m1, k7 (28sts)

Next row: purl

Armhole shaping:

Next row: k6, cast off 2, k12, cast off 2, k6

Next row: p6, cast on 7sts, p12, cast on 7sts,

p6

Next row: k4,k2tog,k7,k2tog,k8,k2tog,k7, k2tog,k4 *****

Change to orange yarn

Next row: knit   Cast off

Green and Black Dress

Using green yarn only work as orange and black dress to***

Work next 4 rows of pattern in black

Work next 4 rows of pattern in pale green

Work next 4 rows of pattern in black

continue in black

Next row: knit, decreasing 1st at end of row (62sts)

Next row: purl

Next row: k8, (k2tog, k13) 3 times, k2tog, k7 (58sts)

Next row: purl

Next row: k7, (k2tog, k12) 3 times, k2tog, k7 (54sts)

Next row: purl

Next row: k6, (k2tog, k11) 3 times, k2tog, k7 (50sts)

Next row: purl

Next row: k5, (k2tog, k10) 3 times, k2tog, k7 (46sts)

Next row: purl

Change to 3.25 needles and green yarn

Next row: k1, (k2tog) to last st, k1 (24sts)

Next row: knit

Change to black yarn

Next row: knit

Next row: purl

Change to green yarn

Next row: knit

Next row: knit

Continue in colour stripes of two rows work as orange and black dress from **** to *****

Next row: purl

Using pale green yarn cast off

Hat

Using no 3.25 needles and black yarn cast on 56sts

Work 4 rows garter stitch

Work 2 rows stocking stitch

Change to orange yarn (green if matching green dress)

Next row: (k2tog) across row 28sts

Next row: knit

Change to black yarn

Beg with a knit row work 4 rows ss

Next row: (k3, k2tog) 5 times, k3 23sts

Next row: purl

Next row: (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k3 18sts

Next row: purl

Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2 14sts

Next row: purl

Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2 11sts

Next row: purl

Next row: (k1, k2tog) 3 times, k2 8sts

Next row: purl

Next row: k2tog, k4, k2tog 6sts

Next row: purl

Next row: k2tog, k2, k2tog 4sts

Next row: purl

Next row: (k2tog) 2 times

Next row: k2tog

Fasten off

To Finish

Sew centre back seam using mattress stitch

Sew in all ends

Add tassels to hat and centre front of dress.

Barbie knitted capri pants and cropped top

This design is made in 4ply yarn - ideal for using up those scraps of 4ply in your stash.  The legs of the pants are knit separately and then joined to knit the body with a centre back seam.  The cropped top is worked in one piece to armhole shaping with a centre back seam and one button fastening.
I've also added a cute headband!

 If you try the pattern please let me know if you have any problems

Thanks for your interest.

Barbie knitted capri pants and cropped top pattern

The pants have side leg seams and centre back seam.  
The top has a centre back seam with a button fastening

To fit: 12 in Barbie (latest model) 
Materials:  approx 25g 4ply knitting yarn in main and contrast colour, 1 small button
Needles size 3mm, and 3.25mm   ( US 2 and 3)
Tension: 30sts and  36rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles
Abbreviations:  k: knit, p: purl, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yon: yarn on needle, rep: repeat, ss: stocking stitch, m1 pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, dec: decrease, inc: increase, psso: pass slipped stitch over

Capri Pants

Right leg
Using smaller needles and main cast on 14sts
Work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit) Change to larger needles 
Work 4 rows ss
Inc 1st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 22sts ending wrong side Work 2 rows ss*
Next row:  Cast off 1st, k to end
Next row:  Cast off 3sts p to end
Fasten off yarn leave a long enough tail for sewing leg seam
Leave 18sts on holder
Left leg
Work as right leg to *
Next row:  Cast off 3sst, k to end
Next row:  Cast off 1st p to end
Do not fasten off yarn

Joining legs
Slip sts from right leg onto left hand needle with right side facing, Slip sts from left leg onto left hand needle with right side facing, (see photo)  36sts on left hand needle



The 3 cast off sts should be on either side of the row.


Work as follows:
(K2tog, k14, k2tog) 2 times, across 36sts
Next row:  purl
Next row:  k2tog, k29, k2tog
Work 5 row ss ending with a purl row
Change to small needles
Work 4 rows of k1, p1, rib
Cast off loosely in rib.

Cropped Top

Using smaller needles and contrast cast on 30sts
Work 2 rows garter stitch
Change to main
Work 2 rows garter stitch
Change to larger needles and contrast
Work 4 rows ss
Next row:  Cast on 2sts, k to end (the 2 cast on stitches are for the under flap of back opening)   32sts
Next row: k2, p to last 2sts k2
Next row: knit
Repeat last 2 rows one time
Next row: k2, p to last 2sts k2

Shape armhole
Next row:  k8, cast off 3sts, k12, cast of 3sts, k to end
Next row:  (buttonhole row) k2tog, yon, p4, cast on 9sts, p12, cast on 9sts, p6, k2
Change to main 
Cast of loosely knit wise, when casting off work k2tog at either side of 9 cast on sts to shape neckline.
Fasten off yarn.

Headband

Using no 10 needles and main colour, cast on 30sts
Work 2 rows in garter stitch
Cast off,  sew into a round

To finish

Capri pants - sew side leg seams and rear seam.  Fasten off all ends
Top
Sew back seam to cast on sts of back edging, slst border flap in place.  Sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole.

Barbie crochet dresses and bag

This green dress is the first crochet pattern I made and published for Barbie.  I've amended the pattern to reduce the number of increases by increasing only on alternate rounds.  


The bodice is made first in dc (US sc) rounds, then the skirt is worked from the base of the bodice in trs (US dc) 

 

To fit:  12” Barbie (the latest model) and most fashions dolls
Materials: 25g 4ply yarn( I used Patons Soft Cotton 4ply), Crochet hook no 3.50 (or size to match tension)
Tip: Any 4 ply yarn would do, I made the dress in some left over sock yarn which was quite interesting.  Crochet cotton is not suitable as its too thin.  
Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 26 rows to 4” over dc (check your tension and use suitable size hook)

Abbreviations:  Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase

Notes:
This dress is a close fit so any differences in yarn weight will make a smaller or larger garment. Cotton thread is not suitable.
Work through the back loop only for a softer fabric
Place a marker at beginning of each round to keep track of rounds

If you find any mistakes or have any queries about this pattern please leave a comment below or contact me.

Dress

 

Bodice
worked in rounds - hook through back loop only
Using no 3.50 hook make 26ch
Rounds 1:2 dc all around
Round 3: 1dc in each of next 6dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 6dc, (24dcs)
Round 4:8:   dc all around 
Round 9: 1dc in each of next 5dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 12 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc to end (26dcs)
Round 10:13: dc all around
(work through both loops on either side of 7ch to avoid a loop)
Round 14: 1dc in each of next 5dc, 7ch, miss 2 dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, 7ch, miss 2dc, dc to end
Round 15: 1dc in each of next 4dc, miss next dc, 1 dc in each of 7 ch, miss next dc, 1dc in each of next 5dc, miss next dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc, miss next dc, dc in each of 7ch, miss next dc, dc to end   Sl st in next dc fasten off.

Skirt

Using no 3.5 hook, rejoin yarn to base of bodice and work in rounds as follows:
Round 1:    3ch (counts as 1 tr) (2tr in next st, 1tr in next st) repeat to end, sl  st in top of 3ch   (38trs) approx
Round 2:    3ch, 1tr in each tr around,  sl st in top of 3ch
Round 3:    3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 2tr,) repeat to end, slst in top of 3ch
Round 4:    3ch, 1tr in each tr around, sl st in top of 3ch
Round 5:    3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 3tr,) repeat to end, slst in top of 3ch
Round 6:    3ch, 1tr in each tr around, sl st in top of 3ch
Round 7:    3ch, (2tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of next 4tr,) repeat to end, slst in top of 3ch

To make skirt longer continue in rounds as above following increase on every alternate round.
To finish - Neaten all ends.

Crochet Dress with contrast trim and matching bag

Materials: 25g 4ply yarn in main and contrast, (I used Patons Soft Cotton 4ply)
Crochet hook no 3.50 (or size to match tension)

Work bodice as crochet dress    

Skirt

As crochet dress but, after each treble round, work a round of dcs in contrast.  Finish skirt hem by working (1dc, 1ch) in contrast around.  Using contrast work (1dc, 1ch) around neck edge.

Bag 

work through both loops to create a firm texture

Using no 3 hook and main colour, make 12 chain
work 1dc in each ch, then continue along bottom side of ch to make 24dc
Rounds 1: 5: work 5 rounds dc
Round 6: 8: Using contrast, work 3 rounds dc
Round 9: miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 13 chain, miss 7 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, miss 1 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc,13 chain, miss 7 dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc

Motif (make one in each colour)
Using no 3 hook make 4 chain, sl st in first ch to make loop
Work 6 dc in loop fasten off

To finish: Sew seam. Fasten off ends. Attach motifs to front of bag as shown in photo



PDF pattern for download