18in doll ribbed sweater

 

Designafriend doll

My Generation doll

These are my two 18in dolls in their new ribbed sweaters. Its a nice easy pattern, the back and front is made in one piece (see photo) with the sleeves picked up at the shoulders and a button fastening at the back for ease of fit.  Its a bit fiddly with all the colour ends so leave a longish strand when changing colour for sewing the sleeve and side seams and, if I'm honest, usually end up knotting other ends where possible.

This pattern has been tested thanks to my sister, but mistakes can so easily slip by when transferring to my blog.  So please, if you find any mistakes or have any other query let me know in the comments section below.  Thanks and happy knitting.  

Actual measurements   Chest 14”/36cm, length from shoulder to hem 7”/18cm, sleeve seam 3”/8cm

You will need:   20g dk colour A, 10g for each colour B and C,  4mm straight needles, 1 small button

Abbreviations

k: knit, p: purl, st(s): stitch(es), tog: together, yrn: yarn round needle, inc: increase, patt: pattern, sl: slip st, psso: pass slipped stitch over

Tension (Gauge):
24sts x 32 rows using 4mm needles over rib pattern

Using 4mm needles and colour A cast on 43sts
Row 1   k1, p1 to last st, k1
Row 2   purl
These 2 rows form the rib pattern
Work 16 more rows in pattern
Fasten off colour A and change to colour B
Work 18 rows in pattern, place a marker at each end of row 14
Fasten off colour B and change to colour C
Work 10 rows in pattern

Shape Neck
patt 17, cast off 9sts in rib patt, patt 17            
Turn and continue on 17sts for right side
Row 1    purl
Row 2   k1, sl, k1, psso, patt to end   16sts
Row 3   purl
Rows 4-5   repeat last 2 rows           15sts
Rows 6-11   6 rows in patt
Row 12  cast on 8sts, (k1, p1) to last st, k1     23sts   

Row 13  buttonhole, purl to last 2sts, yrn, p2tog

Rows 14-25  12 rows in patt

Fasten off yarn and leave 23sts on a holder

Left Side

With colour C and wrong side facing rejoin yarn to remaining sts
Row 1    purl
Row 2    patt to last 2sts, k2tog       16sts
Row 3    purl
Row 4-5   repeat last 2 rows           15sts
Rows 6-12   7 rows in patt
Row 13    wrong side facing, cast on 8sts, k1, purl to end   23sts
Row 14    patt 20sts, k3
Row 15   k1, purl to end
Rows 16-23  repeat last 2 rows  4 times
Row 24    patt 20sts, k3
Row 25    cast off 3sts purl to end       20sts
Fasten off colour C and change to colour B
 
Join pieces
With right side facing patt across 20sts of left side, then continue across 23 sts of right side   43sts
Work 17 rows in patt, place a marker at each end of row 4
Fasten off colour B and change to colour A and work 18 rows in patt.  Cast off in rib pattern
 
Sleeves
Using 4mm needles, and colour A, with right side facing, pick up and knit 37sts evenly between markers around armhole edge.
Next row   purl
Beginning with the first row of pattern, and continuing with pattern, decrease 1 stitch at each end of row 7 then every following 6^th row to 31sts.  Work 2 more rows in patt. (a total of 24 rows for sleeve)  Adjust length here if you want
Cast off in rib pattern
 
To finish
Sew sleeve and side seams.  Sew edge of placket to back of back opening. Sew on button to match buttonhole

wrong side of back opening

18in doll All in one

 

Another of my patterns that I've amended to fit an 18in doll.  The all in one is nice and roomy  and fits most 18in dolls but check on the length of legs and sleeves as you go.  My models are My generation doll and Designafriend

The item is made from the ankle up on straight needles throughout, with the sleeves made separately then seamed at the raglan and sleeve and leg seams.    For the multi coloured set I used Stylecraft bambino prints - puzzle, which gives a nice self pattern effect with plain lilac for the ribbing.   

This pattern has been tested thanks to my sister, but mistakes can so easily slip by when transferring to my blog.  So please, if you find any mistakes or have any other query let me know in the comments section below.  Thanks and happy knitting.  

You will need
4mm and 3.25mm needles
All in one: 75g dk yarn in main, 10g contrast,
4 small buttons
Tension (Gauge): 24sts x 28 rows using 4mm needles over stocking stitch
Abbreviations
k: knit, p: purl, st(s): stitch(es),tog: together
yon: yarn on needle
kfb: increase by knitting into first loop then knit into back loop of same stitch
ssk: Slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time onto right hand needle, then knit through back loops together

 

Left leg

Using 3.25m needles cast on 26sts
Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib.    Change to 4mm needles
Next row      k2, (kfb, K1) x 12             38sts
Next row      purl
Continue in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch at each end of 13th and every following 12th row to 44sts, then every alternate row to 48sts ending on a purl row (42 rows)
Check the length from hem to top of leg on your doll and add more rows if needed
Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows *
Leave 44sts on a holder

Right leg

As left leg to * don’t fasten off yarn

Join legs

Row 1      knit across 44sts of right leg then continue across 44sts of left leg 88sts**
Row 2      purl
Row 3      k41, ssk, k2 k2tog, k41          86sts
Row 4      purl
Row 5-8  4 rows stocking stitch
Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows 80sts
Work 18 rows stocking stitch

Shape armholes

Base row K16, cast off 6sts, k36 (includes st on left hand needle after casting off) cast off 6sts, k16

Left front

Row 1 purl 16 turn (leave remaining sts on needle)
Row 2 k1, k2tog, knit to end
Row 3 purl
Rows 4-9 repeat rows 2 and 3 to 12sts,
place a marker at beg of last row

Shape neck

Row 1 k1, k2tog, knit to last 2sts, k2tog 10sts
Row 2 purl
Rows 3 to 8 repeat rows 1 and 2 to 4sts
Row 9 k2tog x 2
Row 10 p2tog
Fasten off yarn leaving a thread for sewing seam

Rejoin yarn to next 36sts, wrong side facing 
for back
Row 1 purl 36, turn (leave remaining sts on needle)
Row 2 k1, k2tog, knit to last 3sts, ssk, k1
Row 3 purl
Repeat last 2 rows to 16sts
Fasten off yarn and leave sts on a thread

Right front

Rejoin yarn to next 16sts, wrong side facing
Row 1 purl 16
Row 1 knit to last 3sts, ssk, k1
Row 3 purl
Rows 4-9 repeat rows 3 and 4 to 12sts
place a marker at end of last row

Shape neck

Row 1 ssk, knit to last 3sts, ssk, k1 10sts
Row 2 purl
Rows 3 to 8 repeat rows 1 and 2 to 4sts
Row 9 ssk x 2
Row 10 p2tog

Sleeves make 2

Using 3.25mm needles cast on 26sts, work 4 rows k1, p1 rib
Change to 4mm needles
Next row k2, (kfb, K2) x 8 34sts
Next row purl
Work 18 rows stocking stitch
Check length on your doll

Shape armholes

Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows 28sts
Next row k1, k2tog, k to last 3sts ssk, k1
Next row purl
Repeat last 2 rows to 8sts
Fasten off yarn and leave sts on holder

Neckband

Using 3.25mm needles, with right side facing,  beginning at right front edge marker, pick up and knit 8sts up right front, 8sts across first sleeve, k7 k2tog, k7 across back, 8sts across second sleeve, pick up and knit 8sts down left front to marker. 47sts
Work 4 rows p1, k1 rib. Cast off in rib.

Left front band

With right side facing, using 3.25 needles, pick up and knit 33sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts. Work 5 rows p1, k1 rib. Cast off in rib

Right front band

With right side facing, using 3.25 needles, pick up and knit 33sts along right front edge starting at second set of cast off sts to neck edge. Work 2 rows k1, p1 rib.
Buttonhole row: p1, k1, (yon, k2tog, rib 6) x 3 yon, k2tog, rib 5
Rib 2 rows. Cast off

To finish
Sew side seams of legs and sleeves, sew back seam and front seam to front bands.
Overlap front bands with buttonhole band on top, and sew into place at centre front
Sew on 4 buttons to correspond with buttonholes.  Sew in all ends

18" doll dress

 

This is my new Designer Friend 18" doll so I've been busy adapting some of my other patterns to fit.  My first attempt is this top down dress, knit from the neck down in one piece, with a back seam, using straight needles throughout.  I added a back opening to make it easier to dress the doll.  The dress will fit most 18" dolls  

The pattern has been tested (thanks to my sister) but mistakes can easily slip by so if you find and errors or have problems with the pattern please leave a comment below

Actual measurements: Dress: Chest 14”, length from shoulder to hem 9”

You will need: 50g dk yarn, 4mm (US 6) and 3.25 (US 3) needles, 2 10mm buttons
Tension (Gauge):  24sts x 28 rows x 4” (10cm) using 4mm needles over stocking stitch
Abbreviations  
k: knit,     p: purl,    st(s): stitch(es),    tog: together,    yf: yarn forward       
gs: garter stitch - every row knit,    rs: right side facing,    ws: wrong side facing
slst:  slip stitch
ssk:  Slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time onto right hand needle, then knit through back loops together, or use slip 1, k1 pass slipped stitch over
kfb: increase by knitting into first loop then knit into back loop of same stitch

Using 3.25mm needles, cast on 51sts
Work 2 rows gs
Buttonhole row   k2tog, yf k to end
Next row   k3, (kfb, k5) 8 times,    59sts
Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, begin yoke shaping:
Row 1         k6 (yf, k2, yf, k12) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k9           67sts
Row 2         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 3         k7 (yf, k2, yf, k14) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k10        75sts
Row 4         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 5         k8 (yf, k2, yf, k16) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k11        83sts
Row 6         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 7         k9 (yf, k2, yf, k18) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k12        91sts
Row 8         k1, purl to last 3sts, k3                                          
Row 9         k10 (yf, k2, yf, k20) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k13      99sts                          
Row 10       k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 11       Buttonhole row k2tog, yf, k9 (yf, k2, yf, k22) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k14 107sts
Row 12      k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 13       k12 (yf, k2, yf, k24) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k15      115sts                        
Row 14       k1, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 15       k13 (yf, k2, yf, k26) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k16      123sts                        
Row 16       cast off 3sts, purl to last 3sts, k3              120sts
Row 17       k14 (yf, k2, yf, k28) x 3, yf, k2, yf, k14      128sts                        
Row 18       (p16, k32, p16)  x 2
Row  19      (k16, cast off 32, k16) x 2
 
Change to 3.25 needles
Join backs and front:   ws facing, K15, slst, knit first stitch of front, psso,  knit across 30sts front, slst, knit first stitch of back, psso, k15           62sts
Work 4 rows in gs
Inc row  rs facing, k1, (kfb) x 11, k8,  (kfb) x 22, k8, (kfb) x 11, k1    106sts

Skirt
Change to 4mm needles
Next row    purl 
Begin skirt pattern
Row 1    k1, (k2tog, yf, k6) to last stitch, k1
Row 2    purl
Row 3    knit
Row 4    purl
Row 5    k5 (k2tog, yf, k6) to last 5sts, k2tog, yf, k3
Row 6   purl 
Row 7   knit
Row 8   purl
These 8 rows form the pattern.  Repeat 8 rows of pattern 2 times, then rows 1 to 6
 
Hem pattern
Row 1    k1, (k3, k2tog, yf, k1, yf, ssk)) rep to last stitch, k1
Row 2    purl
Row 3    k2, (k1, k2tog, yf, k3, yf, ssk) rep to end
Row 4    purl
Row 5    k1, (s1, k2tog, psso, yf, k5, yf) rep to last stitch, k1
Rows 6-8    knit 3 rows garter stitch
Cast off loosely
 
To Finish off
Sew back seam.  Sew placket of back opening on wrong side.  Sew on 2 buttons to match buttonhole.  Finish off all ends, block skirt to avoid hem curling up.