Teddy knitted dress and shoes

This is an easy knitting pattern for a dress and shoes.  The dress skirt has a 4 row pattern. changing to garter stitch (every row knit) for the bodice.  The shoes were inspired by some little bootees I made for my grandson a while ago.  I had a bit of a fuss to get the right size for the sole of the shoe as teddy bears paws are large and round!  I tried lots of different ways to edge the shoe - knitting a hem was way too fiddly and difficult to explain in a written pattern.  I don't usually add any crochet in what is essentially a knitting pattern, but couldn't figure out another way to make a neat edge.  If you don't crochet, maybe you could top stitch round the edge just to make it stand out a bit which makes the shoes less like babies bootees.....  I added the strap and then thought - what about little slip on shoes so made the motifs which I think works quite well.
The pattern fits my 15" Lil Cub build a bear well and should be ok for small bears if you work a few less rows.  If you have a larger bear its easy enough to add a few more stitches and adjust the pattern.
A few notes on Tension:  I used budget yarn for this pattern which is great for dolls and teddy clothes but it tends to be a bit thicker than other double knit. Check your tension and measure your bear to make sure the dress fits.  The shoes should fit most Build a Bears.  
The actual measurement of the dress is 8" from hem to shoulder and 16" around chest.  

You will need: 100g double knit yarn, 25g double knit yarn and 2 small buttons if making two colour shoes,  No 3.25mm and 4mm needles, (US3 and 6) No 3.5 crochet hook
Tension: 22sts x 30 rows over 4” using no 4mm needles and pattern
Abreviations: k: knit, p: purl, tog: together, sts: stitches, yf: yarn forward, S1: slip one stitch, M1:  pick up loop between last and next st and work into the back of this loop.
Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), ch: chain

Dress

Back and front (both alike)
Using no 3.25 needles cast on 72sts
Work 6 rows in garter stitch (every row knit)
Change to no 4mm needles 
Work 2 rows stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row)
Row 1: k2,p2 to end
Row 2: purl
Row 3: p2, k2 to end
Row 4: purl
These 4 rows form the pattern
Repeat pattern until work measures 4.5 ins ending on a wrong side

Next row:  (k2tog) across row (36sts)
Work 9 rows garter stitch
Shape armhole:
(right side facing)  Cast off 4sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Next row: k2tog, k to last 2sts, k2tog  (26sts)
Work 9 rows garter stitch
Neck shaping:
Next row: k8, cast off 10sts, k8
Turn, continue on 8sts:
Next row: k6, k2tog
Next row: k2tog, k5  (6sts)
Work 10 rows garter stitch  (check length of straps against your bear to ensure a good fit)
Cast off. Fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing seam.

Rejoin yarn to remaining 8sts wrong side facing.
Next row: k2tog, k6
Next row: k5, k2tog (6sts)
Work 10 rows garter stitch  
Cast off. Fasten off yarn leaving a tail for shoulder sewing seam.

To finish

Sew side seams
Sew shoulder seams
Fasten off all ends

Shoes with straps

Using no 3.25 needles cast on 28sts
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k1, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1 k1   (32sts)
Row 3: knit
Row 4: k2, m1, k12, m1, k4, m1, k12, m1 k2   (36sts)
Row 5: knit
Row 6: k3, m1, k12, m1, k6, m1, k12, m1 k3   (40sts)
Row 7: knit
Row 8: k4, m1, k12, m1, k8, m1, k12, m1 k4   (44sts)
Row 9: knit
Row 10: k5, m1, k12, m1, k10, m1, k12, m1 k5   (48sts)
Row 11: knit
Row 12: k6, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1 k6   (52sts)

Change to no 4mm needles  
Work 8 rows garter stitch
Shape  top
Row 1: k32, k2tog, turn   
Row 2: s1, k12, k2tog, turn
Row 3: s1, k12, k2tog, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3  twice
Row:  8: s1, k12, k2tog, turn
Row 9 s1, k to end of row across all sts
Cast off  
Join foot and back seam

Strap
Using no 4mm needles cast on 3sts
Work 24 rows garter stitch
Next row:  k2tog, yf, k1
Knit 1 row
Cast off

Shoe Edging

Using no 3.5 crochet hook fold shoe along last row of sole (see picture) and beginning at centre back edge work a round of dc through loops.

Sew strap onto shoe as in photo, placing button hole on outer side of right and left shoe.  Sew on button to correspond with buttonhole.

Shoes with white sole and motif

Using white yarn, work as shoes above to end of row 12
Change to contrast yarn and continue to end.
Use white to complete edging.
Motif
With no 3.50 crochet hook and white yarn make 3ch, 6dc in 3rd ch from hook, slip stitch to top of 1st dc, (3ch, 1dc) to last dc, slip stitch in dc
Sew motifs on front of shoe and sew on button.  You can also make a motif and sew on dress to match shoes

Fasten off all ends

Finished Projects  on ravelry      

Barbie crochet prom dresses

Its been a while since I made anything for Barbie so I had a look in my stash and found some oddments of 4ply yarn.  I had forgotten I had the sparkly pink yarn so what else to make but a prom dress.   The metallic colour yarn is Sirdar Firefly which I bought ages ago as it was on offer, with the idea that it might come in useful for a scarf but it makes an interesting skirt for the dress. 
The dresses are made from the top down so are easy to put on Barbie.  The only problem is you have to be very careful as her feet can get caught in the crochet.  I usually hold her feet as I pull the dress on.

    The bodice is shaped at the rear (as photo) so the skirt is lower at the back - I was shopping with my daughter and granddaughter looking at prom dresses a few weeks ago and noticed that lots of them have this type of shaping.  The dress is very tight fitting so be careful with tension- but as these little garments are so quick to make it takes no time pull work out and start again!

Any Ravelers out there - if you make the dress please post a photo and link to the pattern

If you find any mistakes are have problems with the pattern please leave me a comment.  













To fit 12” Barbie (the latest model)

Materials:  approx 50g 4ply yarn in main and contrast
please note: not suitable for craft crochet thread
Crochet hook no 3.00 and 4.00 (or size to match tension)
Tension: (Gauge) 22sts x 24 rows to 4” over dc  (check your tension and use suitable size hook)
Abbreviations:
Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet) 
ch: htr: half treble, chain, sl st: slip stitch, inc: increase, beg: beginning

Note: These designs are worked in a continuous round so place a marker at beg of round to keep track of number of rounds.  
For a softer fabric for the garments, work in back loop only throughout the bodice and through both loops for skirt

The dress is made from the top down.

Bodice

Using no 3.00 hook make 30 chain 
work in rounds as follows:
round 1:   1dc in each of next 11 ch,1htr in each of next 3ch, 1slst in each of next 2 ch, 1htr in each of next 3ch, 1dc in each of next 11 ch (30sts)
round 2:   1dc in each of next 11dc, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1dc in each of next 11dc  
round 3:   as round 2
round 4:   dc around
round 5: 1dc in each of next 6dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 16dc, miss 1dc. dc to end (28dcs)
round 6: dc around
round 7: 1dc in each of next 6dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 14dc, miss 1dc. dc to end     (26dcs)
rounds 8-12: dc around

work 7dc place a marker here to donate beg of round (the rounds now start at the side of dress)
round 13: (hip shaping)1dc in each of next 6dc, 1slst in each of next 2dc, 1dc in each of next  7 dc, 2htr in next dc, 1htr in each of next 8dc, 2htr in next dc, 1dc in next dc  (28sts)
round 14: 1dc in each of next 6dc, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2htr in next htr, 1htr in each of next 10htr, 2htr in next htr, 1dc in next dc  (30sts)
round 15: 1dc in each of next 6dc, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 1htr in next  14htr, 1dc in next dc   
rounds16:20:  as round 15.   fasten off yarn 

Skirt

round 1: change to contrast, slst in first st, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in same st, work 3tr in each st to end. slst in top of 3ch
change to no 4.00 hook,
round 2:   slst into next tr, 3ch, 2tr in same tr, (3tr into middle tr of next cluster) repeat to end  slst in top of 3ch
repeat round 2 to required length  
Edge round:  work 5tr in each cluster around.

fasten off yarn

Neck edging

using no 3 hook and contrast work a round of (dc, 1ch) in each chain, around neck line.


To Finish:  sew in all yarn ends.


PDF pattern to download