Showing posts with label free knitting pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free knitting pattern. Show all posts

Friday 1 February 2019

Barbie Aran







Aran Jacket


Sweater 

This is an easy aran pattern of stocking stitch with 4 rows cable repeat.  
The sweater has a back neck fastening for easy fit.  I sewed the side seams to the end of the rib which gives it a more up to date look.  If you want a longer sweater, or even a dress, just do a few more rows of pattern.


I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form.   Thanks




Materials:  30g double knitting yarn, small button for sweater, 4 small buttons for cardigan, Needles size 3.25 and 3.75mm, cable needle
Measurements: to fit 11/12” fashion doll, and Barbie Fashionista dolls
Tension: 24sts x 32rows over Stocking stitch x 4” using no 3.75 needles
Special Abbreviations: C4b: slip next 2sts onto cable needle and leave at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.


Sweater


Front
Using 3.25 needles cast on 20sts
Work k1, p1 rib for 3 rows
Next row:  rib 5, pfb, kfb, rib 6, pfb, kfb, rib 5   (24sts)
Change to 3.75 needles
Row 1:   k4 (p1, c4b, p1, k4) 2 times
Row 2:   p4 (k1, p4, k1 p4) 2 times
Row 3:   k4 (p1, k4, p1, k4) 2 times
Row 2:   p4 (k1, p4, k1 p4) 2 times
These 4 rows form the pattern, rep 3 times then rows 1 and 2 (total of 18 patterns rows)
Armhole shaping
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows    20sts*
Work a further 8 rows in pattern
Shape neck
Row 1:  patt 5, k2tog, turn
Continue on 6sts for left front
Row 2:  patt to end
Row 3:  patt to last 2sts, k2tog      5sts
Row 4:  patt to end
Cast off 5sts, leave a thread for sewing shoulder seam.

With right side facing, slip next 6st onto a thread, re-join yarn and continue for right front
Row 1:  k2tog, patt to end    6sts
Row 2:  patt to end
Row 3:  k2tog, patt to end   5sts
Row 4:  patt to end
Cast off 5sts, leave a thread for sewing shoulder seam

Back
As front to *
Work a further 12 rows in pattern
Cast off 5sts at beg of next 2 rows

Do not fasten off yarn, continue for neckband
Right side facing, change to 3.25 needles
Knit across 10sts of back, pick up and knit 6sts down left front, knit 6sts left on thread, then 6sts up right front.  28sts
Row 1:  cast on 3sts, (for back fastening) k1, p1 rib to end  31sts
Row 2:  rib to last 2sts, yon, k2tog
Cast off in rib
Sew left shoulder seam, sew right shoulder seam to rib. 

Sleeves

With right side facing and no 3.75 needles pick up and knit 18sts around arm edge excluding cast off sts. see photo

Work 19 rows ss, placing a marker at each end of 3th row
Change to 3.25 needles and work 3 rows k1, p1 rib
Cast off in rib, leave a thread for sewing seam.

To finish
Sew up sleeve seam to markers, Sew side (i sewed the side seam to rib) and underarm seams
Sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole on neck
Finish off all ends



Cardigan


Back
As back of sweater. Fasten off yarn and leave 10sts on holder

Left front
Using 3.25 needles cast on 10sts
Work k1, p1 rib for 3 rows
Next row:  rib 3, pfb, kfb, rib 5    (12sts)
Change to 3.75 needles
Row 1:  k4, p1, c4b, p1, k2
Row 2:  p2 k1, p4, k1 p4
Row 3:  k4, p1, p4, p1, k2
Row 2:  p2 k1, p4, k1 p4
These 4 rows form the pattern, rep 3 times then rows 1 and 2 (total of 18 patterns rows)
Armhole shaping
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 2sts, patt to end 10sts
Work a further 8 rows in pattern
Shape neck
Row 1: ws, cast off 3sts, patt to end   7sts
Row 2: patt to last 2sts, k2tog
Row 3: patt to end
Row 4:   patt to last 2sts, k2tog
Row 5:   patt to end
Cast off 5sts
Leave a thread for sewing seam


Right front
Using 3.25 needles cast on 10sts
Work k1, p1 rib for 3 rows
Next row:  rib 5, pfb, kfb, rib 3    (12sts)
Change to 3.75 needles
Row 1:  k2, p1, c4b, p1, k4
Row 2:  p4 k1, p4, k1 p2
Row 3:  k2, p1, p4, p1, k4
Row 2:  p4 k1, p4, k1 p2
These 4 rows form the pattern, rep 3 times then rows 1 to 3 (total of 19 patterns rows)
Armhole shaping
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 2sts, patt to end 10sts
Work a further 8 rows in pattern
Shape neck
Row 1: rs, cast off 3sts, patt to end   7sts
Row 2: patt to end
Row 3: k2tog, patt to end
Row 4:  patt to end
Row 5:  k2tog, patt to end
Cast off 5sts leave thread for sewing

Sleeves as sweater

Neckband
Sew shoulder seams
using 3.25 needles, beg at right front edge, right side facing pick up and knit 6sts up right front, k10 across back, pick up and knit 6sts down left front.  22sts
work 3 rows k1, p1 rib,  cast off

Left front band
Using 3.25 needles, rs facing, pick up and knit 28sts along left front edge, from neck to hem.  Work 3 rows k1, p1 rib   cast off

Right front band
Using 3.25 needles, rs facing, pick up and knit 28sts along right front edge, from hem to neck.  Work 1 row k1, p1 rib
Buttonhole row:  p1, (k2tog, yf, rib 6) 3 times, k2tog, yf rib 1
Work 1 row rib.     cast off

To finish
Sew up sleeve seam to markers, Sew side and underarm seams
Sew on small buttons to correspond with buttonholes
Finish off all ends

  

Hat

Using 3.25 needles cast on 32sts and
work 7 rows k1, p1 rib
Rib 3, (pfb, kfb, rib 6) 3 times, pfb, kfb rib 3    40sts
Change to 3.75 needles
Row 1:   k2, (p1, c4b, p1, k4) 3 times, p1, c4b, p1, k2
Row 2:   p2, (k1, p4, k1, p4) 3 times, k1 p4, k1, p2
Row 3:   k2, (p1, k4, p1, k4) 3 times, p1, k4, p1, k2
Row 4:   p2, (k1, p4, k1, p4) 3 times, k1 p4, k1, p2
These 4 rows form the pattern. Rep rows 1 and 2
Shape top
Row 1:   k2tog, (p1, k4, p1, k2tog, skk) 3 times, p1, k4, p1 skk      32sts
Row 2:   p1 (k1, p4, k1, p2) 3 times, k1, p4, k1, p1
Row 3:   k2tog (c4b, k2tog, skk) 3 times, c4b, skk          24sts
Row 4:   p2tog across row   12sts
Row 5:    k2tog across row    6sts
Fasten off yarn and thread yarn through remaining 6sts pull firmly, sew seam
Finish all ends

Make a small pompom and sew on top of hat


Sunday 25 November 2018

Barbie Jumpsuit








There are so many gorgeous jumpsuits around at the moment.  I just love those mid calf sparkly ones, great for the season's parties.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find any suitable sparkly yarn for these so chose a mix of trendy colours instead.  I used Sirdar Snuggly which is a lovely soft yarn and not too thick,  (some budget yarns knit up a lot bigger)   


The suit is knit from the neck down with a back fastening for ease of fit, and a belt.  I've given instructions for a basic model Barbie with variations for Curvy and Tall Fashionistas.  These can be made in the round quite easily.  I made the raspberry suit on 3.75 circular needles using the magic loop method.  Instructions can be found here:

how to knit magic loop


I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form.   Thanks


Here's a link for the pattern to download and print.  Unfortunately this doesn't always work with mobile devices, thats why I post the full pattern on this page

To fit: 12” Regular Barbie, Curvy and Tall Barbie Fashionista dolls
You will need:  approx 20g double knitting yarn  (I used Sirdar Snuggly)
Needles size 3.25 and 3.75mm   (either spns or dpns) 2 small buttons for back fastening, 2 small buttons for front decoration
Tension:  28sts and 32rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.75 needles
Abbreviations:  See side panel



The pattern fits a regular Barbie with variations for Curvy Barbie in brown and Tall Barbie in green

knit from the top down, rows start at centre back

Using 3.75 single point needles cast on 38sts
Row 1    k2, purl to last 2sts, k2
Row 2    buttonhole (right side) k2tog, yf, k3, kfb, k7, kfb, k8, kfb, k7, kfb, k7 42sts
Row 3    k2, p7, cast off 7sts, p12, cast off 7sts, p5, k2
Row 4    k7, cast on 3sts, k12, cast on 3sts, k9              34sts
Row 5    k2, purl to last 2sts, k2
Row 6    knit                                                  
Row 7 to 14    as rows 5 to 6, making 2nd buttonhole as before on row 10
Row 15   cast off 2sts, purl to end*                     32sts
For Tall Barbie work 2 extra rows stocking stitch
For Curvy Barbie work 2 extra rows as follows:
Row 16   (kfb, k1) 3 times k to last 6sts, (kfb, k1) 3 times   
Row 17   purl           38sts
Shape back
Row 1     kfb, k to last 2sts, kfb, k1
Row 2     purl
Repeat last 2 rows to 48sts (Curvy Barbie 52sts)

Divide for legs
K24, (Curvy Barbie 26sts) turn, leave remaining sts on a holder
Continue for right leg
** Work 28 rows stocking stitch for shorter legs
I did 28 rows brown set, 18 rows green set and 32 rows rasberry, but check the length on your doll
Cast off.

Left leg
Rejoin yarn to remaining 24sts, (Curvy Barbie 26sts) at centre front, knit to end Continue as right leg from **

For tapered trousers
As trousers above to **
For each leg work 32 rows stocking stitch, dec 1 stitch at each end of 9th then every 4th row to 14sts. cast off
For Curvy Barbie dec 1 stitch at each end of 5th and then every 4th row to 14sts.

Belt
Using 3.25 spnds cast on 60sts, 
Cast off.  Fasten off ends and press lightly to flatten

To finish
Sew leg and back seams.  Slip stitch under flap of back opening in place.  Sew 2 buttons to match buttonholes at the back

Make loops to keep the belt in place.  With the jumpsuit on the doll, tie belt around doll.  On each side of the waist sew a loop around the belt and secure at the reverse side of the jumpsuit.  
I sewed 2 small buttons on the front bodice for decoration

To knit on double point needles
Use single point needles to shape back then change to dpns
Rounds start at centre back.  Follow pattern working in knit stitches only 







Saturday 27 October 2018

Baby Annabell Festive Dress






While browsing online for ideas, I came across a lovely red and white fairisle knitted baby dress for sale.  As there aren't any babies in my family to knit for, (don't they grow up so fast) I made this for Annabell.  Then I found some bright yellow yarn in my stash so along with cream and a touch of green knitted up the second dress.  Now, as I may have mentioned before, I love knitting socks, especially tiny little socks like these which complete the outfit.

Iv'e given instructions for single point needles, but the dress can easily be adapted to knit in the round.  I knit the yellow dress and socks on 4mm circular needles which worked well

The sleeves are made first, then the dress in one piece to armhole shaping, the pieces are then joined to knit the yoke.  There is a small back opening for ease of fit.

There are two patterns for the socks;  one on spnds and the other dpns.  I found the pattern easier to write this way and avoids confusion.  

The socks are quite short but can easily be lengthened by adding a few more rows or a rib.  

I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online.  But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself.  So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog.  So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form.   Thanks


To fit:  14”/36cm Baby Annabell doll
Actual measurements:
Dress:            Chest 14”, sleeve seam 3”, length from shoulder to hem 8”
You will need: 
Dress and socks:  50g red and 10g white dk yarn, 4mm and 3.25 needles, 1 small button
Tension (Gauge):  24sts x 28 rows using 4mm needles in stocking stitch over 10cm 
Abbreviations    
k: knit, p: purl, st(s): stitch(es),  tog: together, garter stitch: every row knit, yf: yarn forward, yb: yarn back, ssk: slip next 2 sts onto right hand needle, insert left hand needle into the front loops of both stitches then knit them together (or use s1,k1,psso) inc: increase by knit into first loop then knit into back loop of same stitch (kfb), m1: pick up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

If knitting in the round reverse stitches on alternate rows.  There is a separate pattern for socks knit in the round. 



Dress

Sleeves
Using 3.25mm needles, and red, cast on 26sts and knit 6 rows garter stitch
Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, follow rows 1 to 4 of chart
Fasten off white
Work 14 rows stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 5th row    30sts
Cast off 3sts at beginingof next 2 rows
Fasten off yarn and leave 24sts on holder

Front and back
Rows start at centre back
Using 3.25mm needles and red, cast on 120sts and knit 6 rows garter stitch
Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, work 2 rows
Follow rows 1 to 15 of chart
Fasten off white
Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5”
Change to 3.25 needles
Decrease row:    k4, (k2tog) 26 times, k8, (k2tog) 26 times, k4   68sts
knit 6 rows garter stitch
Change to 4mm needles
Divide for armholes
(wrong side facing)  p14, cast off 6sts, p28, cast off 6sts, p14
Join sleeves (right side facing)
Row 1:   K14, knit across 24sts of first sleeve, k28, knit across 24sts of second sleeve, k14   104sts
Row 2:   purl
Shaping
Row 3:   k11, (K2tog, ssk, k22) 3 times, K2tog, ssk, k11                   96sts
Row 4:   p11, (k2, p22) 3 times,, k2, p11
Row 5:   k10, (K2tog, ssk, k20) 3 times, K2tog, ssk, k10                   88sts
Row 6:   p10, (k2, p20) 3 times,, k2, p10
Continue decreasing as set to 72sts ending on a wrong side row

Divide for back opening.  If knitting in the round change to rows here
Row 11: cast on 3sts, k10, (k2tog, skk, k14) 3 times, K2tog, skk, k7     67sts
Row 12: k3, p4, (k2, p14) 3 times, k2, p9, k1
Row 13: change to 3.25 needles:  k5(k2tog, k3) 11 times, k2tog, k5     55 sts
Row 14: buttonhole k2tog, yf, knit to end
Work 2 rows garter stitch,   fasten off red and join white
Knit one row, cast off.

To finish
Sew sleeve seam,   Sew back seam to beginning of opening, stitch back flap to underside, sew on button to match buttonhole
Fasten off all ends

Socks

Left sock   knit from toe up
Rows begin at inner leg
Using 4mm needles and red cast on 14sts
Row 1:  k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1
Row 2:  purl
Row 3:  k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1    (22sts)
Beg with purl row work 9 rows ss*


Instructions for wrap and turn to shape the heel
Knit row   yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle turn
Purl row   yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle turn

This will be abbreviated to wrt in the pattern
When wrapping stitches pull the wrapped st firmly to avoid a hole

Shape heel      right side facing
Row 1:  K8, wrt
Row 2:  p5, wrt
Row 3:  k4, wrt
Row 4:  p3 wrt
Row 5:  k4, wrt
Row 6:  p5, wrt
Row 7:  k6, wrt
Row 8:  purl to end
Work 7 rows stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row   (26sts)
Wrong side facing - Join in white and work first 2 rows of chart fasten off red
Using white purl one row
Cast off

Right sock
As left sock to *
Shape heel      right side facing
Row 1:   Knit to last 3sts, wrt
Row 2:   p5, wrt
Continue as left sock

Sew toe and side seams.  Fasten of ends
For plain socks omit chart rows and work 3 rows k1, p1 rib


Socks in the round  (both the same)  knit from toe up
Rounds begin at centre back
Using 4mm needles and red cast on 14sts, join into round
Round 1:  k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1
Round 2:  knit
Round 3:  k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1    (22sts)
Rounds 4 to 9:  knit
Shape heel      
Round 1:   K3, yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn (wrt)
Round 2:   p6, yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle turn  (wrt)
Round 3:  k5, wrt
Round 4:  p4, wrt
Round 5:  k5, wrt
Round 6:  p6, wrt
Round 8:  k3   (this should be at the beg of round)
Work 1 round
Next round: k3, m1, k to last 3sts, m1, k3
Work 3 rounds
Next round: k4, m1, k to last 4sts, m1, k4
Work 1 round
Join in white and work first 2 rounds of chart, fasten off white
Work 1 round.   Cast off
Sew toe seam and fasten off all ends

For plain socks omit chart rows and work 3 rounds k1, p1 rib.

Chart














PDF pattern to download