Monday, 2 November 2015

Teddy bear aran hat and scarf


I found a small amount of aran yarn in my stash and wondered what I could make.  One of the Ravelers had mentioned that she would like a pattern for a hat and scarf for her daughters build a bear - so here it is.  

The hat is knit in rows and made in one piece for the rib, then divided into three pieces for the backs, and front to make a gap for the ears then joined again to shape the top. The hat has a back seam.
Bears ears are a bit tricky to fit a hat around but thankfully the knitting stretches around them ok.  I don't much like the hats that don't have gaps as they can look a bit too bulky.  


my teddy bear model is 15" Li'l Cub Build a bear










You will need
about 50g of aran weight yarn
needles size 4mm and 5mm (US 6 and 8)
cable needle

Abbreviations
k: knit, p: purl, sts: stitches, m1: make 1 by picking up loop between sts and knitting into the back, alt: alternate, tog: together
c4b: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and leave at the back of work, k next 2sts, then 2st from cable needle

Hat


Using no 8 needles cast on 76sts
Work k2, p2 rib for 13 rows
Increase row:  rib 9, m1 (rib 19, m1) 3 times, rib 10   (80sts)
Change to no 6 needles
Next row:  (k1, p2, k4, p2, k1) 8 times

Divide for ears (wrong side facing)
Next row:  (p1, k2, p4, k2, p1) 2 times,  turn.  Leave remaining 60sts on holder or keep on left hand needle

Continue on 20sts for right back
Row 1:  (k1, p2, c4b, p2, k1) 2 times
Row 2:  and all alt rows:  p1, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
Row 3:  (k1, p2, k4, p2, k1) 2 times
Row 5:  as row 3
Row 6:  k3, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
These 6 rows form the cable pattern.  Repeat pattern once then repeat rows 1 and 2. Leave sts on holder.

Re-join yarn to remaining sts wrong side facing
Next row:  k1, (k2, p4, k2, p2) 3 times, k2, p4, k3 turn.  Leave remaining 20sts on holder or keep on left hand needle

Continue on 40sts for front
Row 1:  k1, (p2, c4b, p2, k2) 3 times, p2, c4b, p2, k1
Row 2:  and all alt rows:   k1,(k2 p4, k2, p2) 3 times,  k2, p4, k3
Row 3:  k1, (p2, k4, p2, k2) 3 times, p2, k4, p2, k1
Row 5:  as row 3
Row 6:  k1,(k2 p4, k2, p2) 3 times,  k2, p4, k3
These 6 rows form the cable pattern.  Repeat pattern once, then repeat rows 1 and 2  Leave sts on holder.

Re-join yarn to remaining 20sts wrong side facing
Continue on 20sts for left back
Next row:  K3, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p1
Row 1:  (k1, p2, c4b, p2, k1) 2 times
Row 2:  and all alt rows: k3, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p1
Row 3:  (k1, p2, k4, p2, k1) 2 times
Row 5:  as row 3
Row 6:  k3, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
These 6 rows form the cable pattern.  Repeat once then repeat rows 1 and 2. Do not fasten off yarn

Shape top
Working across all sts of left back, front and right back continue as follows (right side facing)
Row 1:  (k1, p2tog, k4, p2tog, k1) to end   64sts
Row 2:  (p1, k1, p4, k1, p1) to end
Row 3:  k1, (p1, k4, p1, k2tog) 7 times, p1, k4, p1, k1   57sts
Row 4:  (p1, k1, p4, k1) to last st, p1
Row 5:  k1, (p1, c4b, p2tog) 7 times, p1, c4b, p1, k1       50sts
Row 6:  k2tog, (p4, k2) 7 times, p4, k2tog   
Row 7:  p1, (k4, p2tog) 7 times, k4, p1   41sts
Row 8:  k1 (p4, k1) to end
Row 9:  p1, *(k2tog) 2 times, p1** repeat from * to ** 8 times   25sts
Row 10:  p2tog, to last st, p1     13sts
Row 11:  k2tog to last st, k1       7sts
Fasten off yarn leaving a tail, thread yarn through remaining 7sts and secure with a few sts continue to sew back seam.  
Sew medium pompom onto top of hat
Finish all ends

Scarf

Using no 6 needles cast on 16sts
Row 1:  k4, p2, k4, p2, k4
Row 2:  and all alt rows:  k6, p4, k6
Row 3:  k4, p2 c4b, p2, k4
Row 5:  as row 1
Row 6:  k6, p4, k6
These 6 rows form the cable pattern. 
Continue in pattern until scarf is 25” long

Gather each end of scarf.
Attach a small pompom to each end

Fasten off all ends

Sunday, 6 September 2015

Teddy Pumpkin Sweater





Summers over - what summer we had here in dear old blighty - and my thoughts have turned to patterns for the coming seasons.  So first up here is a cute little pumpkin sweater for Ted  for Halloween.  

The sweater is knit in double knitting yarn and takes about 75g of main colour with small amounts of orange, black and green.  

The pumpkin motif is made using the intarsia (colour block) method and if anyone is new to this here is a great tutorial

Intarsia for dummies      



I've also used a duplicate stitch for decorating the mouth, eyes, nose and mouth here's another link for this technique      duplicate stitch you tube


Please let me know if you find and mistakes on the pattern or have any queries. And when you've made the sweater please put a photo on Ravelry and link to my pattern.  Thanks



Pattern Teddy Pumpkin Sweater




Measurements:   to fit 15/16” Teddy Bear
Actual measurements:  Chest 16”, Length centre back 7”, Sleeve seam 3”
Materials: 75g double knitting yarn in main colour, oddments of orange yarn and small amount of black and green for motif ,  Needles size 3.25mm and 4mm, small button
Tension: 24sts - 30 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using no 4mm needles (or the size required to give correct tension.             
Abbreviations:  k: knit, p: purl, Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, yon: yarn on needle
Note:  When knitting the motif, use a separate length of main colour yarn at each side of the motif to prevent lengths of yarn across the back of knitting.  Twist yarn when changing colour. 

Back

Using smaller needles and main, cast 46sts
Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib, inc 1st at end of last row   (47sts)
Change to larger needles *
Work 22 rows ss   (adjust length here if you want)
Armhole shaping
Next row:  Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows 
Work 22 rows ss
Cast off 8sts at beg of next 2 rows
Fasten off yarn, leave 25sts on holder

Front

As back to *
Work 6 rows ss
Follow chart for pumpkin motif, centre at front At the same time work armhole shaping on row 15 of chart

Armhole shaping

Next row:  Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows 
Work 8 rows ss
Shape neck
Next row:  k 13 turn
Continue for left front
** Dec 1st at neck edge on next 5 rows   (8sts)
Work 8 rows ss   Cast off.  Fasten off yarn
 Right font neck shaping
With right side facing, slip centre 15sts onto holder.  Re-join yarn and k 13sts
Work as left front from **

Sleeves (make 2)

Using smaller needles cast on 38sts
Work 4 rows k1, p1 rib, inc 1st at each end of last row    (40sts)
Change to larger needles
Work 20 rows ss, place a marker at each end of row 16 
Cast off loosely

Neckband

Join left shoulder seam
Using smaller needles and with right side facing knit 25sts across back, pick up and knit 14sts down left front, knit 15sts at centre front, pick up and knit 14sts up right front.     (68sts)
Work 4 rows k1, p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib ( I use a size larger needle)

To Finish

Join right shoulder seam
Join sleeve seam to markers
Sew in sleeves evenly placing centre of sleeves to shoulder seams.
Sew in all ends

Decorating Motif

Using black and  duplicate stitch embroider mouth, nose and eyes as on chart, and 
using green make stalk as chart.



Thursday, 9 April 2015

Teddy knitted dress and shoes





This is an easy knitting pattern for a dress and shoes.  The dress skirt has a 4 row pattern. changing to garter stitch (every row knit) for the bodice.  The shoes were inspired by some little bootees I made for my grandson a while ago.  I had a bit of a fuss to get the right size for the sole of the shoe as teddy bears paws are large and round!  I tried lots of different ways to edge the shoe - knitting a hem was way too fiddly and difficult to explain in a written pattern.  I don't usually add any crochet in what is essentially a knitting pattern, but couldn't figure out another way to make a neat edge.  If you don't crochet, maybe you could top stitch round the edge just to make it stand out a bit which makes the shoes less like babies bootees.....  I added the strap and then thought - what about little slip on shoes so made the motifs which I think works quite well.
The pattern fits my 15" Lil Cub build a bear well and should be ok for small bears if you work a few less rows.  If you have a larger bear its easy enough to add a few more stitches and adjust the pattern.
A few notes on Tension:  I used budget yarn for this pattern which is great for dolls and teddy clothes but it tends to be a bit thicker than other double knit. Check your tension and measure your bear to make sure the dress fits.  The shoes should fit most Build a Bears.  
The actual measurement of the dress is 8" from hem to shoulder and 16" around chest.  

You will need: 100g double knit yarn, 25g double knit yarn and 2 small buttons if making two colour shoes,  No 3.25mm and 4mm needles, No 3.5 crochet hook
Tension: 22sts x 30 rows over 4” using no 4mm needles and pattern
Abreviations: k: knit, p: purl, tog: together, sts: stitches, yf: yarn forward, S1: slip one stitch, M1:  pick up loop between last and next st and work into the back of this loop.
Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), ch: chain

Dress

Back and front (both alike)
Using no 3.25 needles cast on 72sts
Work 6 rows in garter stitch (every row knit)
Change to no 4mm needles 
Work 2 rows stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row)
Row 1: k2,p2 to end
Row 2: purl
Row 3: p2, k2 to end
Row 4: purl
These 4 rows form the pattern
Repeat pattern until work measures 4.5 ins ending on a wrong side

Next row:  (k2tog) across row (36sts)
Work 9 rows garter stitch
Shape armhole:
(right side facing)  Cast off 4sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Next row: k2tog, k to last 2sts, k2tog  (26sts)
Work 9 rows garter stitch
Neck shaping:
Next row: k8, cast off 10sts, k8
Turn, continue on 8sts:
Next row: k6, k2tog
Next row: k2tog, k5  (6sts)
Work 10 rows garter stitch  (check length of straps against your bear to ensure a good fit)
Cast off. Fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing seam.

Rejoin yarn to remaining 8sts wrong side facing.
Next row: k2tog, k6
Next row: k5, k2tog (6sts)
Work 10 rows garter stitch  
Cast off. Fasten off yarn leaving a tail for shoulder sewing seam.


To finish

Sew side seams
Sew shoulder seams
Fasten off all ends

Shoes with straps

Using no 3.25 needles cast on 28sts
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k1, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1 k1   (32sts)
Row 3: knit
Row 4: k2, m1, k12, m1, k4, m1, k12, m1 k2   (36sts)
Row 5: knit
Row 6: k3, m1, k12, m1, k6, m1, k12, m1 k3   (40sts)
Row 7: knit
Row 8: k4, m1, k12, m1, k8, m1, k12, m1 k4   (44sts)
Row 9: knit
Row 10: k5, m1, k12, m1, k10, m1, k12, m1 k5   (48sts)
Row 11: knit
Row 12: k6, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1 k6   (52sts)

Change to no 4mm needles  
Work 8 rows garter stitch
Shape  top
Row 1: k32, k2tog, turn   
Row 2: s1, k12, k2tog, turn
Row 3: s1, k12, k2tog, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3  twice
Row:  8: s1, k12, k2tog, turn
Row 9 s1, k to end of row across all sts
Cast off  
Join foot and back seam

Strap
Using no 4mm needles cast on 3sts
Work 24 rows garter stitch
Next row:  k2tog, yf, k1
Knit 1 row
Cast off

Shoe Edging



Using no 3.5 crochet hook fold shoe along last row of sole (see picture) and beginning at centre back edge work a round of dc through loops.

Sew strap onto shoe as in photo, placing button hole on outer side of right and left shoe.  Sew on button to correspond with buttonhole.


Shoes with white sole and motif


Using white yarn, work as shoes above to end of row 12
Change to contrast yarn and continue to end.
Use white to complete edging.
Motif
With no 3.50 crochet hook and white yarn make 3ch, 6dc in 3rd ch from hook, slip stitch to top of 1st dc, (3ch, 1dc) to last dc, slip stitch in dc
Sew motifs on front of shoe and sew on button.  You can also make a motif and sew on dress to match shoes

Saturday, 28 March 2015

New app and casting on stitches

I've just found a great app for knitters and crocheters.  Its a row counter - you set it up on your phone or tablet and tap the screen at the end of the row, so much easier than pencil and paper!
I had a large project on the go just before Christmas - an Aran Jacket for my mother in law and the pattern was a bit tricky over about 20 rows so the app was amazing.  Its great when i'm working on my little designs when its important to keep track of the rows.  Oh I know you techie lot will probably tell me that these apps have been around for ages but for everyone else - they're great and free.

 Something else I wanted to share is a bit odd.  Over the last year or so I've been knitting and crocheting a lot of, mostly, little items.  Not only do I put patterns on here but also on Ravelry (see my blog). I knit the item up, usually pull some out and amend, and jot notes for the pattern.  Once the pattern has been typed up I test knit it at least 2 times,  the finished items are usually given to granddaughters , donated to charity fundraisers or sold on Ebay.    The thing is - when I cast on to knit or crochet, I don't consciously count I just stop when I think I've done enough as I'm usually watching the TV or chatting to OH.  Anyway the strange thing is I almost ALWAYS have the right number of stitches.  Even when knitting the aran jacket when I had to cast on 100 or so I generally had the correct number.  Perhaps its because I do so much knitting I must subconsciously add as I go even when talking to someone.
If anyone else does this I'd love to hear your views.

Right back to testing my new pattern for teddy dress and shoes.

Sunday, 8 March 2015

Barbie crochet prom dresses



Its been a while since I made anything for Barbie so I had a look in my stash and found some oddments of 4ply yarn.  I had forgotten I had the sparkly pink yarn so what else to make but a prom dress.   The metallic colour yarn is Sirdar Firefly which I bought ages ago as it was on offer, with the idea that it might come in useful for a scarf but it makes an interesting skirt for the dress. 
The dresses are made from the top down so are easy to put on Barbie.  The only problem is you have to be very careful as her feet can get caught in the crochet.  I usually hold her feet as I pull the dress on.

    The bodice is shaped at the rear (as photo) so the skirt is lower at the back - I was shopping with my daughter and granddaughter looking at prom dresses a few weeks ago and noticed that lots of them have this type of shaping.  The dress is very tight fitting so be careful with tension- but as these little garments are so quick to make it takes no time pull work out and start again!

Any Ravelers out there - if you make the dress please post a photo and link to the pattern


If you find any mistakes are have problems with the pattern please leave me a comment.  













To fit 12” Barbie (the latest model)

Materials:  approx 50g 4ply yarn in main and contrast
please note: not suitable for craft crochet thread
Crochet hook no 3.00 and 4.00 (or size to match tension)
Tension: (Gauge) 22sts x 24 rows to 4” over dc  (check your tension and use suitable size hook)
Abbreviations:
Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet) 
ch: htr: half treble, chain, sl st: slip stitch, inc: increase, beg: beginning

Note: These designs are worked in a continuous round so place a marker at beg of round to keep track of number of rounds.  
For a softer fabric for the garments, work in back loop only throughout the bodice and through both loops for skirt

The dress is made from the top down.


Bodice


Using no 3.00 hook make 30 chain 
work in rounds as follows:
round 1:   1dc in each of next 11 ch,1htr in each of next 3ch, 1slst in each of next 2 ch, 1htr in each of next 3ch, 1dc in each of next 11 ch (30sts)
round 2:   1dc in each of next 11dc, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1dc in each of next 11dc  
round 3:   as round 2
round 4:   dc around
round 5: 1dc in each of next 6dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 16dc, miss 1dc. dc to end (28dcs)
round 6: dc around
round 7: 1dc in each of next 6dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 14dc, miss 1dc. dc to end     (26dcs)
rounds 8-12: dc around

work 7dc place a marker here to donate beg of round (the rounds now start at the side of dress)
round 13: (hip shaping)1dc in each of next 6dc, 1slst in each of next 2dc, 1dc in each of next  7 dc, 2htr in next dc, 1htr in each of next 8dc, 2htr in next dc, 1dc in next dc  (28sts)
round 14: 1dc in each of next 6dc, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2htr in next htr, 1htr in each of next 10htr, 2htr in next htr, 1dc in next dc  (30sts)
round 15: 1dc in each of next 6dc, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 1htr in next  14htr, 1dc in next dc   
rounds16:20:  as round 15.   fasten off yarn 



Skirt

round 1: change to contrast, slst in first st, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in same st, work 3tr in each st to end. slst in top of 3ch
change to no 4.00 hook,
round 2:   slst into next tr, 3ch, 2tr in same tr, (3tr into middle tr of next cluster) repeat to end  slst in top of 3ch
repeat round 2 to required length  
Edge round:  work 5tr in each cluster around.

fasten off yarn


Neck edging

using no 3 hook and contrast work a round of (dc, 1ch) in each chain, around neck line.


To Finish:  sew in all yarn ends.




Tuesday, 27 January 2015

Teddy bear crochet jacket









My crochet teddy dress pattern has been very popular so I thought I'd have a go at a crochet jacket. 
The sleeves are made first then the main body is made in one piece to armholes. The yoke is crocheted across the right front, sleeve, back, sleeve then left front and continued in rows.  I work the dc through the font loops only to made a softer fabric.  


All teddy bears are different sizes - my models are a 14" bear i picked up in a charity shop and  build a bears lil cub is 15" and the bunny is 17".  The pattern is easy to alter to fit your bear - just increase the rows on the sleeves or body.  You could also add an extra decrease row at the neck edge if you want.

I've had a few problems writing this pattern in both sizes so if you find any mistake or typos please leave a message so I can amend it.  



Any Ravelers out there - I would love to see a photo of your project linked to this pattern.





Crochet Pattern

2 sizes to fit 12/14” and 15/17” teddy bears  second size is in red

You will need:  approx 75g (250yds) of double knitting yarn, no 4.5 crochet hook, 2 buttons

Tension:  18dc x 20 rows to 4" using no 4.5 hook

Abbreviations:  this pattern is written using UK terms:  ch: chain, dc: double crochet (US sc) tr: treble (US dc), 


Sleeves (make 2)

No 4.5 hook make 30 (34) ch
Work 2 rows dc       (30 (34) dcs)
Base row:   4ch, (miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, miss 2dc, 3trs in next dc, 1ch) to last 5dc,  miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, miss 2dc, 1tr in last dc
row 1:    2ch, (3tr in next dc, 1ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, 1ch) rep to last dc, 3tr in dc, 1ch, 1dc in top of 4ch space.  
row 2:    4ch, (miss 1tr, dc in next tr, 1ch, 3tr in dc,1ch, )  rep to last 3 trs, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, 1ch, 1tr in top of 2ch

Repeat last 2 rows 2 (3) times then row 1,  (6 (8) pattern rows in total) adjust length here if required, finish on row 1.  Fasten off yarn



Main body

No 4.5 hook make 84 (96)ch
Base row:   1dc in 5th ch from hook, (1ch, miss 2ch, 3tr in next ch, 1ch, miss 2ch, 1dc in next ch) rep to last 2ch, miss 1ch, 1tr in ch (13 (15)shells
row 1:    2ch, (3tr in dc, 1ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, 1ch) rep to last dc, 3tr in dc, 1ch, 1dc in top of ch
row 2:    4ch, (miss 1tr, dc in next tr, 1ch, 3tr in dc,1ch, )  rep to last 3 trs, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, 1ch, 1tr in top of 2ch

Repeat last 2 rows 5 (6) times then row 1,  (12 (14) pattern rows in total) adjust length here if required finish on row 1. Do not fasten off yarn


Yoke

The yoke is worked in dc rows, make 1ch at beg of each row as edge st - does not count in stitch count and work in front loop only for a softer fabric.

1st size only

With right side facing work along right front as follows:
base row:    1ch (does not count in stitch count) (1dc in dc, 1dc in each of next 3trs) 3 times

Continue across top of sleeve:
Miss dc and next 3trs on sleeve, (1dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3trs) 4 times, 1dc in next dc.

Continue across back, 
Miss dc, 3trs, dc 
(1dc in each of next 3trs, 1dc in next dc ) 5 times, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 3trs

Continue across top of second sleeve
Miss dc and next 3trs on sleeve, (1dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3trs) 4 times, 1dc in next dc.

Continue across left front
Miss dc 3trs, dc,
(1dc in dc, 1dc in each of next 3trs, ) 3 times, 1dc in top of ch   ( 80 dcs)
Turn

2nd size only
With right side facing work along right front as follows:

Base row:   1ch (does not count in stitch count) (1dc in dc, 1dc in each of next 3trs) 3 times, 1dc in dc, 1dc in tr

Continue across top of sleeve
Miss dc and next 3trs on sleeve, , (1dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3trs) 5 times, 1dc in next dc. 

Continue across back
Miss 2tr,dc, 2tr
1dc in next tr, (1dc in dc, 1dc in each of next 3trs) 6 times, 1dc iin dc, 1dc in next tr

Continue across top of second sleeve:
Miss dc and next 3trs,  (1dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3trs) 4 times, 1dc in next dc.

Continue across left front
Miss 2tr, dc, 2tr
1dc in tr,(1dc in dc, 1dc in each of next 3trs, ) 3 times, 1dc in top of ch    (98 dcs)  turn
next row:    dc7, (miss 1dc, dc11) 7 times, miss 1dc, dc6    (90dcs)
next row:     dc across row


Both sizes

row 1:  dc 5  (miss 1dc, dc9 ) 7 (8) times, miss 1dc, dc4   (72 81 dcs)
row 2 and alternative rows: dc across row
row 3:  dc 4 (miss 1dc, dc8 ) 7 (8) times, miss 1dc, dc4    (64 72 dcs)
row 5:  dc 4  (miss 1dc, dc7 ) 7 (8) times, miss 1dc, dc3   (56 63 dcs)
row 7:  dc 3 (miss 1dc, dc6) 7 (8) times, miss 1dc, dc3     (48 54 dcs)
row 9:  dc 3 (miss 1dc, dc5) 7 (8) times, miss 1dc, dc2     (40 45 dcs)

Work 2 rows of dc down left front, along hem and up right front, working a 2ch buttonhole at beg of yoke and at neck edge on first row.

Sew up sleeve seams and underarms. Sew on buttons to match buttonholes. Neaten ends